Double Trouble – Rebel RC

Carisma’s GT24T & GT24TR 1/24th Brushless 4WD RTR Vehicles Tested

Words & Images: Phil MakeItBuildIt Lawrence

Spec

  • 8000kV Brushless Motor
  • Friction Dampers
  • Detailed Rubber Tyres
  • New Full Sized CTX8000 Tx
  • Responsive Steering Servo
  • 1S 3.7V (stock) or 2S 7.2v (Upgraded) LiPo Powered
  • Length 185mm
  • Wheelbase 121mm

UK RRP: £79.99  Global RRP: $109.99

Available in the UK Here   Available Globally Here

Need Another GT Hit

After reviewing the Carisma GT24R, a miniature Pikes Peak replica and thoroughly enjoying racing it around the House, Garden, outside on Tarmac (hell, anywhere I could find an imaginary Rally Course to test it on!). I next wanted to stay with small form factor RC, but with a vehicle that had more Off Road capabilities (Putting it bluntly: I wanted to get some jumps in!). A few phone calls later and along came a small box, it contained both of the GT24R’s freshly born siblings …

The GT24T (Monster Truck) and the GT24TR (Truggy)

Big Similarities – Subtle Differences

Who doesn’t love a cool Monster Truck or Truggy?

Both of these share the same chassis as the GT24R with its fantastic micro brushless power system and well designed and manufactured suspension and steering, however there are a few differences.Apart from the obvious body shell change, the wheels are different too. Larger wheels with deeper and wider tyres, allowing for more grip on the loose stuff, body posts are present but not used and the rear bumper from the GT24R is not installed or needed

Chassis Rear
Underneath the bodyshells the Monocoque Chassis and running gear is the same
Chassis top
The hologram sticker ensures the authenticity of this Cariama product

Unlike many other small scale RC manufacturers who like to offer smaller form factor Transmitters with their products, Carisma have coupled the GT24 series of cars with the very much full sixed CTX8000 transmitter.

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The cars may be small, but the Tx is full sized (and featured!)

It’s both ergonomic (fits the hand nicely), and full featured. It also offers trims for steering and throttle, servo reversing along with an adjustable steering rate thumb wheel conveniently placed on the handle by your thumb (you will see later why this is a good idea).

Good for Kids N Newbies Too

The CTX98000 also comes with a rubber throttle limiter that you can slide over the trigger, so it stops the driver using full throttle. Something that would be useful when you hand the remote to a new to RC driver or young child for example.

Chassis top close
Note the Velcro on the side…no body posts required!

Chassis under close

The chassis is a vented enclosed monocoque design and is super sleek, hiding inside under more than adequate protection all of the electrics  like the fast steering servo, and the 8000kv brushless motor. Keeping little fingers (or big ones) away from any hot or moving parts. (no scorching fingers on hot motors here) alongside keeping all the muck outside where it belongs.

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The space under the chassis offers space for either a 1 or 2S LiPo

Sliding open a small hatch on the bottom reveals a very neat battery compartment, which the 1s brushless battery fits in with ease. This is where I made my first upgrade, as I had already tried the GT24R (insert link) on a 1s battery and loved it, but the animal in me wanted more. I thought why not give in and go with a 2s I had ready to slot in, cue big demonic grin!

Chassis Battery Full
Tetris skills required…its tight but possible!

The official Carisma upgrade 2s battery is a tighter fit than the stock 1S offering, but once I engaged my Tetris brain, I found an easy way to fit it. keep the red JST connector against the inside of the chassis, then feed the battery in, the balance lead will fit perfectly at the end of the battery…someone designed this to fit well.

No Slop & Well Designed

Suspension again is remarkably sturdy for its size and I’m still shocked at how little play there is in the joints, especially when you consider how much slop is in some 1:10 scale or larger cars. The advantage to this is that the handling won’t be compromised by lots of play, as even a small movement in this scale could change camber/caster or toe by a large percentage. In short:-

No Slack = Predictable Driving = More Fun

The wheels are kept on the ground with twin wishbone suspension , which does not have adjustable geometry, but does allow 2 different shock mount points both top and bottom, alongside 2 steering arm positions on the hub, neither of which have any bump steer when I tested them.

Chassis under
This could be a 1/10th or even a 1/8th…but its way smaller than that!

For those that don’t know, bump steer is when the steering arms are not designed with the same pivot point geometry as the suspension, so as the wheel is moved up and down it causes the wheel to turn in or out. this makes the handling not so good and is best avoided. Thankfully Carisma have got this right and you don’t need to worry…

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The design is tough and robust…designed to be run not looked at!

Shocks are friction shocks with fixes spring rates, although I believe that oil filled dampers are available as an upgrade if its something you wanted to do, along with carbon shock towers and all other manner of goodies.

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The stickers on each wheel add additional detail…while mainitaining the strength of a dish

I did my old skool drop / bounce test and if you are racing this competitively, then I would look at the shock upgrade, if you are having fun with it, ragging it about with friends, I would not worry the stock shocks work well.

All of the models are 4WD and pack a differential front and rear, meaning no scrubbing when turning and more grip. There is a built in slipper clutch too, there is a chance I might need it with 2s power!

2s battery
1S is fast, but 2S is ballistic!
charger
USB LiPo charging offers safety for younger users, but remember in some terratories the vehicles dont ship with LiPo or Chargers

Body wise unlike the GT24R, no body mount or pins are needed, instead you have a foam extension on the side of the chassis and Velcro to mount the body. You don’t need to remove the body to change the battery, or to turn the car on and off, all of that is done on the bottom of that lovely enclosed chassis.

As mentioned earlier, there are two body styles, the Truck (GT24T) and the Truggy (GT24TR), it comes to personal choice which you prefer, both offer great visibility and do not affect the handling, means when racing your mates its easier to see which is yours

Ensure Body Sits Correctly

On the GT24T, the first time I drove it I had to move the body slightly backwards to stop the front wheels catching the body on full lock, but that took me a few seconds and was zero hassle to do, this was probably my fault from when I took the shell off for the photographs. It’s likely i did not put it back in the correct location based on the wheel wells, and I had just lined the Velcro up.

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Probably the cutest Monster truck in the history of RC

Performance on 2s is blistering and you would have to be a driving god (well better than me) to drive in a standard house sized room at full throttle, I recon it could do a 24th wall of death quite easily !

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I wonder how many back flips I can do with it? Only one way to find out!

Outside or in a larger space where you can give the Carisma GT24 its legs, OMG how can something that small manage such acceleration, the top speed is impressive and I would love to know what it works out on scale speed, I’ve now nicknamed the GT24TR “Bluebird”!

Watch Out For Grip Roll

Thankfully the CTX8000 controller comes with a handy steering travel/rate adjust so when you are bombing along at warp factor 5, you can dial down the steering so it’s not too aggressive and induces a high speed roll…. ok, I admit, I found this out the hard way. After belting along at full speed with a massive grin on my face, I turning sharply and let’s just say I stopped counting at 8 flips and started the walk of shame while it was still going.

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Much more of a serious Race Stance…The Truggy looks epic!

Testament to Carisma, no damage, apart from a few scratches to the shell, which has to be expected when playing on concrete.

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Note how much difference the wheels make to the overall look…

The suspension does a good job of soaking up the terrain, I did find the odd bounce now and again when going over some rougher parts at high speed, but that added to the fun.

We gave it a whole 1 minute before starting doing jumps, yes our resolve was that strong! (now you understand why we take the pictures before driving). These two are a hoot, and the more you have, the better it gets, having 2 or 3 racing round is fantastic fun for not a big outlay.

Verdict: Highly Recommended…can’t wait to see what they do next, a baby Short Course or Rock Racer would be cool. Or even a baby Crawler/Scaler…watch this space!

Available in the UK Here   Available Globally Here

Really Tiny Trucks…Simply Rock!

Pro-Line Ambush 1/25th 4WD RTR Electric Mini Scale/Trail/Crawler

Words & Images Daniel Siegl & ProLine

Available Globally: HERE  Available in the UK: HERE

Length: 198mm

Width: 95mm

Wheelbase: 115mm

Weight: 308g

I always fancied a smaller true Scale/Trail/Crawler rig. But until very recently there was only really one option; the Losi Trekker. Trouble is, that rig was never quite my thing, and it was very much a case of form over function. It looked great but out where it mattered it just didn’t cut the mustard. Also, its basic spec left a little to be desired. The NIMH batteries for example, the weak steering servo and relatively high C of G all combined to make the actual driving experience itself a little unimpressive.

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About the same size as a Losi…but that’s where the similarity ends!

This aside, more recently ProLine hit the RC scene with its Ambush and RC4WD its 1/18th D90…The latter will be covered in a future article from Peter Gray, the former, I just had to get my hands on and review.

Just Wow…

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Leaf Springs For The Win…Literally!

Was my first reaction, finally someone had thought a rig of this small scale through properly. But are they the same axles as the Losi or different? Giving it a closer inspection I can confirm, it is a completely different car – the similarities really only relate only to the size and the fact that they both have an integrated Speed Controller and 2.4GHz Receiver unit – that’s it.

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Compact and well thought out electrics placement and weight bias

You’ve probably already read all about the technical details of the rig – So, I won’t bore you with too much of that. This review will be a charge it and run it, hands on affair. After all isn’t that what’s important with a RTR product? Yes many of us eventually modify a RTR vehicle in some way to improve its performance, and also aesthetically to personalize it’s look.

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The tiny motor had lots of well needed Torque!

Actually, I will be totally honest here, we had our review sample car back in November, but our friend Brian Parker found so very entertaining and decided to give it a shakedown of his own! That’s why we ended up getting it just after Christmas, used and without any packaging!

2 Hardcore (But Tiny) Testers…

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Perfect for little (and big) kids anywhere in the World!

I wanted to just look at the rig for a while, its that cute, then go run it myself. But, my 2 girls, one 3.5 and the other 5.5 discovered it for themselves and started the hands on testing for me. The Ambush actually did a great job in this very tough role. After a full pack of running there was nothing broken. I was amazed, as its is finally an RC vehicle that my 2 were self-motivated to play with without prompting. And they keep asking to have more time with it!

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The rig really does perform well above its obvious size limitations

We tested the car in the last 2 months extensively at a variety of locations:

  • Indoor at Lego Course

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Forget Ed Shearan’s Lego House…we built a Lego Test Trail
  • On ice on the pond in front of the house

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Slippy meets Grippy…all together now:- “Ice, Ice Baby!”
  • And finally when the weather allowed, to drive it in Spillern

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Anything a 1/10th can do…you can attempt with the Ambush!

I have to say, of all the rigs that are in this size, so far the Ambush is clearly the most fun! So much fun in fact that that I tended to push it very hard and attempt things I probably shouldn’t with such a tiny rig, and yes as a consequence a lot of the time it ended up falling over. But when it made almost impossible looking lines it gave you such a feeling of achievement.

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The added RECON G6 decals help explain whos had our sample and what its been up to!

The leaf springs suspension work very neat, and like all the other Micro rigs out there, the tiny motors performance of course is rather limited. But that has a huge advantage when a child or newbie is driving it, since it is less can be broken!

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Considering its size the attention to detail is stunning…

At first glance the electrics seem very unexciting. But having run the rig lots now, my opinion is very positive. I think that even my 3.5 year old could handle the modern and simple USB charger. But fast its not…You need some patience when re-peaking the pack.

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Not fast, but safe…USB charging!

Verdict:

The first true small “Scaler” offering the ability to be able to drive it like its a much bigger rig.

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Against the included standard sized Tx it looks tiny…because it is!

It’s suitable for both children as well as experienced RC drivers. The included driver model looks right just needs a bit more paint and detail adding to give it more depth.

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1/10th next to 1/24th….Little n Large

It punches well above its weight and size and offers hope that this size of vehicle, packing much of the performance of its 1/10th counterparts could grow and grow.

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So much scope and so well made…huge thumbs up from me and RCCZ for the ProLine Ambush

With RC4WD and ProLine leading the way, lets hope more manufacturers follow suit., and a dedicated Micro class grows from it…check out our running video below!

Huge shout out to ProLine and the global RECON G6 family

See you out on the trails, or at a G6

Daniel

Create…Don’t Imitate

Words: Peter Gray & Dphotographer Danny Huynh

Images: Dphotographer Danny Huynh Archive

Huge shout out to www.RC4WD.com For helping facilitate this article.

Prologue

A few years back I started seeing images and posts online of some of Antipodean RC builder Dphotographer Danny Huynh amazing body shell art and full on build projects. I was simply gob smacked at the intricate detail, the unique approach he put to every aspect, and both the visual as well as mechanical story each one told.

Trying to explain what they convey without actually seeing them is difficult. They have a rare quality in that they are not only visually stunning, meaning you end up scrutinizing each image much longer than most RC posted online, but they are also truly innovate.

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I love this image on three levels…Terminator meets Lowrider meets Supercharger

Danny utilizes many stock components in very unique ways. he also adds detail features not usually associated with the original vehicles, like faux Rotary Engines more akin to use in a flight scenario, Machine Guns, Revolving cab sections and much more. Each build usually has a driver figure and or gunner/co-pilot/sidekick present, and these are often animated via linkages and servos to make then not only come to life, they actually look like they are steering/firing/riding. The figures often have a slightly dark Sci-Fi twist.

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I think Logan may have a slightly heavy right foot…But at least he can drive a manual!

From Terminator androids and Wolverine, to what can only be described as undead Sci-Fi Storm Troopers…(and not the Star Wars kind!), they have a look and presence that seem to elevate each build to an even higher level of cool.

No Two Are The Same…

He’s build 3WD chopper-esc Drift Trikes (yes you read that correctly…3WD, Drift Trike) based on 1/5th Thunder Tiger race bike, rigs based on Axial donors, painted some of the sickest drift car bodyshells I’ve ever seen, and more recently done a series of builds based on RC4WD kits, donor vehicles and parts. And these are something else!

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Near the start of a very cool revolving cab/gun rear engine rig…check out Danny’s FB for the finished thing!

I recently got a chance to interview the man himself. We are friends on Facebook, and comment on each others photographs and projects all the time, but I wanted to know more about him as a person. What inspires the man that himself inspires so many to re-visit the art of truly building. An art that for many has been lost, and to a whole new generation of RC fans, who have grown into the hobby with RTR vehicles, run mostly stock.

I do hope this will be in some way a wake up call and an inspiration to you to go and get yourself a kit, and put some of yourself into its build process. But enough of that, onto the interview…

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Note the suspension…Danny uses every part in new and interesting ways

RCCZ: What led you to this point in your RC builds? We want the Dphotographer Danny Huynh Origin Story…when did they go from Cool to Epic?

DPDH: “I’m a documentary photographer by trade and have always had a passion for cars. Not so much the mechanical side of them, but more passionate about the design aspects of cars. So about 5 years ago, I’ve decided to buy my first RC car!

I always wanted to win one while growing up in the 80’s since my parents couldn’t afford one, but hey… Better late than never!

I’ve never really considered my works as being cool or epic. I just do what I enjoy and am thrilled to see other people appreciate it…”

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Gotta love a blower on a big block engine & the RC4WD units simply deliver!

RCCZ: How would you describe your creations? To me they are functioning works of RC Art…They blow my mind and inspire me in equal measure.

DPDH:“I like to describe them as a form of creative thinking, I like to keep them very similar in style, but also different from each build to set them apart. I’ve never called myself an artist. I just stumbled into the title through the use of Facebook.

I suppose it is a form of art to a certain extent, specifically the painting and photography side of it…”

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Yes, that’s airbrushed/painted onto the side panels…amazing!

RCCZ: You seem to see the World in a very different way to most. What’s your favorite film/book? In my head I can see a whole Graphic Novel littered with your builds…what’s inside your head?

DPDH: “Not much goes inside my head to tell you the truth. I don’t read books or graphic novels, I’m more of a music person and must have something on all day, every day while I tinker.

Some of my favorite movies Kill Bill, Blade Runner, movies with alien/s etc., but I don’t see any of those being an influence in my work.

I feel that my biggest inspiration comes from WW2 vehicles. Particularly, the aircrafts during that period which I believe to be the best design in aviation history! “

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This tracked Beast II build wouldn’t look out of place in a Ridley Scott film on a distant planet…full of Aliens!

RCCZ: What was your first ever true RC vehicle? (and did you modify the hell outta it?)

DPDH: “As I mentioned previously, I bought my first RC car about 5 years ago. It was the re-release of the Tamiya Avante and brought back my childhood memories from the 80’s. Back then, it was Tamiya’s design with their Avante and Egress that really got my attention. Even the box art itself was truly a work of art.

Shortly after, I discovered RC drifting and bought a Tamiya VDS drift chassis. That allowed me to be really creative and paint the drift shells in different ways. I think this is where it all really started with teaching myself how to paint drift shells and eventually lead to modifications on the VDS. It was the first of my animated drivers, the Kick Ass action figure!

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Whatever that ‘Bomb’ is on the back (Hydrogen, Confetti, N0z?) it adds a twist to this build that’s simply epic!

RCCZ: If you could build anything, based on any kit, from any manufacturer ever made, no budget restrictions…no scale concerns, what would it be?

DPDH: “I’ll have to go with what I’m building with right now. I have built quite a few different RCs, but nothing compares to RC4WD’s products. Not only do their scale trucks really suit my style of building, but RC4WD provides a great deal of details in all their products. Mainly, their scale chassis’ really brings my designs to life…”

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Ready to take on almost anything…the tail gunner and detail is on another level…Another stunning build

RCCZ: What are the top 3 things you can offer as advice for people inspired to get their own build projects started?

1. Create and don’t imitate

2. It doesn’t have to be realistic, just as long as it works and looks “unreal”.

3. Have fun!

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The skull on thee front grille just adds that finishing touch…

RCCZ: Any insights into your latest projects? Anything we really need to know about you, and the future of PDH?

DPDH: “I try to build a new project every month. it usually takes a month or two for all the detailing and creation to work as one. Currently, I’m working on a RC4WD Gelande 2 with their classic Toyota Land Cruiser Body. It’s a tow truck based on the Zero Warbird with a radial engine. hehe…”

PS: “You might also be seeing another Trike soon, since I’ve been wanting to challenge myself with another 3 wheeler…”

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Nothing would stand in this rigs way…and if it did it would be crushed (mentally & physically!)

RCCZ: Have you ever thought of producing a book about the entire body of your work? I could see it sitting on coffee tables all over the World…especially mine!

DPDH:“I never considered producing a book, but yes, that would be cool. I pride myself as a photographer as that is after all how this all started… you know, painting drift shells and photographing them. I have to snap a photo everyday otherwise I go mad…hehe!”

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Undead Storm Trooper anyone? Pretty isn’t he! and on a very minimal ride…

RCCZ: Last question…Where do you want to see the RC Industry and this vibrant Scale Scene go in the future? Is it still as exciting and diverse as when you first got hooked? Or do you think it needs more people with your drive and vision to push the boundaries a little, and inspire a new generation into getting involved and building using traditional model making techniques?

DPDH: “That all depends on what one loves about this hobby. I know that this industry is constantly growing and has been awesome with releasing new kits and creations quite regular to keep us happy.

The great thing about this hobby is that there are various aspects as to what we each love about it. For me, it’s creating, painting and photographing it. And yes, it “IS” as exciting as the day I discovered it! For others, it can be the racing side or competitive side to it, or both. Whichever it is, we need to keep practicing what we love about this hobby. Practice makes perfect, or at least pretty darn close!”

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One for the VW fans…now this would be one Camper Van I would love to take to Dubfest!

Epilogue

A huge shout out to Danny for taking the time to answer my questions. We look forward to seeing more of his builds in the future. Huge thanks’ also to RC4WD for helping facilitate this, and for more on Danny and his builds check out his Facebook page HERE 

I do hope that for those not familiar with his work it will inspire you to. Its set a benchmark in terms of being so different and taking us away from always striving to create photorealistic builds. Adding in a little weird and using a little leftfield thinking creates something fresh and exciting, and long may that be so!

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Re-living Group B Memories

Tamiya’s Classic TT02 Lancia Delta Integrale 4WD 1/10th Rally Car Kit

Words & Images: Phil “MakeItBuildIt” Lawrence

Available in the UK: HERE & HERE

Manufacturer: Tamiya

UK Distributor: The Hobby Company

UK RRP: £139.00

Spec:

  • Width: 186mm
  • Length: 407mm
  • Height: 159mm
  • Wheelbase: 257mm
  • Gear Ratio = 9.58:1

Required Items

  • 2-Channel R/C Unit
  • ESC may be required, UK versions include ESC
  • Battery Pack & Charger
  • Paint, Tools & Patience

It’s Been Emotional

So, where should I start this journey; when I got the kit, or a lot further back? I’ve been told in the past to start at the beginning , however I’m going to break that rule and start at the end, as I cannot wait to share the finished product with you.

This is the end result of what has been a long journey for me. It has been an emotional journey and one with a variety of feelings along the way, but well worth the travelling .

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A Rally Car of my childhood dreams…Group B was short lived, but Epic!

Back to the beginning

OK, before I show you too much, let’s go back to the beginning, the very beginning, <cue the ‘Wayne’s World’ time travel special effects>

My journey into RC cars started with Tamiya. Without a shadow of a doubt, Tamiya were THE manufacturer of kits in the 80’s. I remember being in awe as my younger self opened the box, seeing all the components and then learning to build the kits. It’s fair to say that more than half of the fun of a Tamiya was the journey before you drove the car.

We live today in a Ready To Run world, and this has its advantages to get people driving quickly. However, there is something lost for me in RTR cars. In building the car up yourself, you not only got a massive sense of achievement and pride in what you have achieved, but you also built your knowledge. Knowing how a car is put together is a big thing so overlooked by the RTR world of today. If you built the car, you understand the car, and I think that allows you to repair, upgrade and tune as you want with confidence.

For those, like me, who have some silver or white in what hair they have left, this should ring some bells. For those younger, I know there were some re-releases of the classics in early 2000’s. The Tamiya cars at the time, for me, were the Hornet, Grasshopper and the Frog, swiftly followed by other character cars like the Wild Willy Jeep.

I still have a soft spot for the F150 Ford Ranger with its aluminium suspension setup and scale looks, as that was one of the last cars of my childhood and was also the car that re-united me with my father after family divorce – RC has a way of mending many bridges by providing a common ground.

My memories of the Tamiya kits were good overall; I don’t ever recall a badly moulded part on any of my kits sprues. Sure, I remember upgrading the friction shocks to oil filled dampers and changing the plastic bush rings for metal ball races in some of my earlier budget based builds.

The thing with this, is that you have to remember where Tamiya placed those kits. They offered (and still do) a range of kits, from their top of the range pro racing kits with all the upgrades in the box as standard, to an accessible entry level kit to get as many people into RC Cars as possible  whilst maintaining a decent quality level as, after all, the experience of a bad model could taint your RC experience and put someone off the hobby.

So you can hopefully understand why this meant a lot to me when I was asked to relive my journey and how would the current models match up to the expectations in my head from remembering my Tamiya roots.

First Glance

OK, back to the near present <more Wayne’s World time travel wavy screen effects and sounds>

Presented with a boxed Tamiya TT02 sporting the legendary 1992 world rally championship winning Lancia Delta Integrale, let’s just say I was quite excited as the memories started flooding back.

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Gone are the days of cool Tamiya box art I’m afraid…unless its an 80s re-release!

On first glance the kit contained not only the car itself, but a motor and speed controller so, in addition to the kit, I added a 9009 Low Profile servo from RC-Core to use alongside my existing Spektrum radio gear and a can of white PS-1 Tamiya paint.

So, I’m itching to get started and having built a few kits in the past and although I stand a good chance of piecing together the car by sight without having too many parts left over, I think it’s best to use the instruction manual with its exploded diagrams, to aid the process. But just before I get into the build zone and delve in with the clippers and a knife blade to clean all the joints up, let’s have a look at the some of the sprues and what you get.

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Parts N Sprues…Parts N Sprues…

As you can see, the injection moulded black plastic sprues are very well moulded, so they are accurate and have a great finish. These contain all the parts you need, each one numbered so you can identify it easily using the manual and have a relatively simple build process.

A tip for removing the parts is never ever twist them off the sprues, as often that removes a small amount of the part as it comes off. My preference is to use wire cutters and clip the part off close to the part and then use a craft knife or Stanley type knife to or scrape off any mould marks to ensure the very best fitment and look.

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Chrome parts look cool and add an extra dimension to the fine detailing

Chrome and body-coloured parts to add lots more detail and realism to the Lancia

The moulded “bath tub” chassis provides a very sturdy base for the Tamiya TT02 to be built on, and should keep everything inside protected from any stones etc. from the off-road escapades that I know it’s going to have.

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A plastic tub chassis is the backbone to many a Tamiya build…and rightly so!

Wheels and tyres, again have had time lavished on them in the design phase to add more realism with the cross cut block tyres and white rally wheels, ensuring they are both functional for driving and look great if your car is a shelf queen.

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Rally Block tyres are both realistic and functional…
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Plastic replicas of the original Rally Wheels used by Lancia

Onto the build

Following the instructions, after installing the centre driveshaft, one of the first parts to build is the differential. For those that don’t know what this is or how important it is, it allows the wheel on each side to turn at a different speed, whilst still being driven forwards by the motor.

This is needed to make it easier to turn the car, as the wheel on the outside of the bend has to travel further than the wheel on the inside. On a 4wd car like the Tamiya TT02 Lancia Delta, it will have a differential at the front and at the rear. without them it would be very hard to drive.

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Meshed and lubricated correctly these plastic gears and diff components work perfectly well, and will last

The differential is made up of a 4 planet gears and 2 crown gears that fit inside the main housing and allow the wheels to to turn at different speeds as previously explained.

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The provided grease is your friend…use it wisely

Tamiya, thankfully for those that have not built a differential or a car before, break everything down into sections and detail the build step by step. Everything you need is included in the kit, and they even put in the required tubes of grease.

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Note the safety remark…”Not Eatable”. That made me smile!

After a few steps (7 if you included building the driveshaft), you end up with the following, a completed differential installed ready for the cover plate.

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Note: the central propshaft/driveshaft spins on white plastic bushes and not ball bearings

You can see in the image above that Tamiya have provided plastic bushings rather than ball bearings with the kit. Ball bearings are available as an upgrade, and its one I would recommend if you want to extend the life of the TT02.

I’m not going to recreate the manual in this review, but hopefully show you enough steps and images that you can be part of the build with me

Before long the motor is installed and the pinion gear mesh with the main drive gear is set by the chassis and motor mount. There is no fiddling to do to get it right. You can see the smear of thick grease that is used to stop dust ingress into the motor and gear mesh, simple and effective.

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The bevel and ring gear mesh perfectly…again a smear of grease will ensure smooth and long life

The suspension and drive shafts are built up. To allow the correct movement, Tamiya have moulded ball joints that you assemble – it takes a hard press to get the balls into the moulded cups, but they go in with a click, then you can bolt through into the steering hub. It goes to show again the accuracy of Tamiya’s moulds and process they use to create the plastic parts.

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Dog Bones may limit steering deflection but they are a classic way to transfer power from outdrive to wheel..

The drive shafts are “Dog Bones”, very simple, very effective, the metal pin that goes through the drive shaft fits into a slot on the axle hub and differential hub. This allows the suspension to move up and down and the steering to turn whilst still transmitting the power from one to the other, and, in turn, driving the wheel.

Progressing Well

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A bird’s eye view of the chassis…it’s getting there but still lots to do

Well the Tamiya TT02 is starting to look like a chassis now. Steering linkages need to be made up and fitted, but it won’t be long before its able to move under its own steam!

Using two bell-cranks and some linkages to the wheel hubs and to the servo (via a servo saver) the steering is done.

So, What’s A Servo Saver?

Whilst some servos are now metal geared, traditionally, servos have plastic gears inside them that drive the output shaft which you connect to the servo horn and, in turn, the steering.

It was quite easy to damage these servo gears by hitting a curb, for example. The force of that impact was transmitted directly back to the servo, so some clever soul invented a servo saver. It uses a separate inner and outer ring and a spring so, if there is a big impact, some of that impact force is taken up by the spring part and the servo gears are saved…

(Lots of modern servos use or have options for metal gears now, however a servo saver can still be a good idea)

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The steering setup works equally on both front wheels and its servo is protected by a servo saver built into the servo horn

Onto The Shocks

One thing to note at this point is the shock absorbers are friction and not oil damped. Whilst that makes for an easy build, it is the one thing I would certainly upgrade. Once you have driven a car with oil dampers and softer springs you appreciate the smoother, less bouncy drive.

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OK, so the shocks are just friction units…but easy to build and maintain for a younger RC fan or newbie into the hobby

Pin Location & Faux Disk Hexes

In order to stop the axle spinning inside the wheel, Tamiya follow the trusted method of using a pin through the axle which goes into a slot on the back of a plastic hex. As you tighten the wheel onto the axle with the lock nut, it presses the hex (with its built in faux disc) over that pin to ensure nothing can slip when you give it full throttle.

Note: Faux disk brakes are moulded into the wheel hexes

Installing the Electrics

Now the mechanical side is finished, it’s time to sort out the electronics. For some this can be a daunting task, but I can help put aside any fears by saying it’s all plug and play, even colour coded.

Neatness is the key to efficient electrics installs

The Electronic Speed Controller provided is far superior to the old three speed wiper speed controllers of my youth and very welcomed. No ceramic resistors to scorch your arm on and a much smoother power delivery too.

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Brushed or in the future Brushless use…the included ESC is a welcome change to brushed only offerings in this level of kit

This ESC is also capable of running both the brushed drive motor that came in the kit, or an upgraded brushless motor, so they have given some future proofing as standard and an easy way to add more power. Tamiya, another thank you from me.

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Yes, I could have cut all the cables shorter and got things even neater but I may need these components for future builds, so why bother?

I’ve not cut and soldered any of the wires in this kit. and although it might look complex or a lot of wires, all I have done is plugged them in, bunched them up and used a couple of cable ties so they are tidy and don’t catch

The wiring is not that hard when you look at it logically…

  • ESC has pre wired switch, battery connector, motor connectors and signal control lead
  • ESC and servo connect to the radio receiver via their signal control lead
  • ESC connects to battery with the attached power lead
  • ESC connects to motor (2 wires for brushed, 3 wires for brushless, all covered in the manual)

With a little planning and some cable ties its simple to bundle the wires up to keep things neat. My personal preference would have been to cut and solder the wires so everything is super neat, but I wanted to build this as I would have built it in my youth.

The Completed Chassis

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A worm’s eye view of the underside of the chassis….protective and smooth

The underside of the bathtub chassis will protect the components and keep everything nice and safe.

Looking good topside, foam bumper installed to help absorb any impact from when we rally this about.

Now to start the most daunting bit for many builders…the bodyshell!

That is the chassis and electronics build done. I have tested it driving about inside the garage and once i had reversed the steering channel on my transmitter, all was good. Those tyres give massive grip on carpet tiles, so should make light work of propelling the Lancia forward on tarmac or loose surfaces.

Group B Body

Painting a body is an experience, and one I think everyone should do at some point; not only to get something personalised to themselves, but it’s another skillset and well worth the time invested in learning.

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The Window Masks and Bodyshell ready for prep work to begin

Before you start, you need to cut out shell. As it comes in the kit, there is some excess material on the wheel arches and around the sills/bumpers. I would recommend investing in some curved scissors for Lexan. They make the job a lot easier. Take your time, follow the lines on the shell and all will be good.

Tamiya provide you with a set of window masking templates for the Lancia and you have to cut these from the sheet yourself, following the guide lines and then stick them inside the windows.

Please remember at this point you are going to paint the shell from the inside. The reason for this is that you are much less likely to scratch any paint off as you’re throwing it down gravel tracks and off road. The outer shell of Lexan will, thankfully, protect your paintwork.

After following the instructions of cleaning the inside of the shell and fitting the window stickers, you can then beak out the spray can.

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Wash and dry the inside, then apply Window Masks, making sure they are rubbed down perfectly at the edges to stop paint bleed

Keep the layers thin, there is no rush and if you put on a big heavy layer, it’s much more likely to run.

A good tip, besides ensuring you’re spraying in a ventilated area with adequate protection, is to warm the paint can in some hot water. This allows the paint to flow better and gives you a more even coat and a better finish.

White is the new…well, white actually!

Once you have enough layers on and good even coverage, you can let it dry (I recommend overnight in a warm place) and then remove the window masks. Almost done (well nearly)

Stickers, Decals, Detail…

I find building quite therapeutic and  spraying is too, for me. Stickers … well it’s a love and hate from me. I want them to be perfect and whilst I enjoy putting them on, there is a lot to put on to this shell. This can be a bit daunting and with one thing and another that was going on in my life, I let this delay the build for far too long.

Taking the bull by the horns and using the old trick of some washing up liquid and water in a spray bottle to allow you to slide the stickers into position, I set to it.

Use a well diluted mixture of washing up liquid and water to help the decals slide into the correct place…then use a cloth or sponge to set in place

I chose a sticker to start with which was one of the rear quarters, and cut out the stickers a few at a time from the multiple sticker sheets

If you spray the outside of the shell (don’t forget to remove the overspray guard film first) with a mist of water with a little washing up liquid mixed in, it will allow you to slide the sticker into place and then squeegee the water out from under the sticker when you have it where you want it.

I found for some of the stickers, as they have to go over quite large areas of complex curves, that a little heat from a hairdryer make it easy to stretch the sticker into any inside curves or allow the sticker to shrink a fraction so you did not end up with any crow feet lines.

Take your time and things will end up just fine…think of it as a form of Sticker Therapy!

As there is so many stickers on this shell, don’t try and do it all in once, work through them in the order that Tamiya have put on the instructions and before long you’ll have a highly detailed model.

There is a small amount of painting to do on the grill shell and mirrors; I used black acrylic paint and brushed it by hand rather than masking and,  as for the rest of the stickers, it’s just a case of following the instructions and building they layers up.

As you can see, multiple decals are used to build up the correct look

Some of the stickers, like the red line on the grill, are very thin and you need to be mindful when cutting them out. Overall, I stopped counting at 120 separate stickers on this shell. But I love the end result, it’s a fantastic scale look, and Tamiya have surpassed themselves here.

I needed a Martini after this lot! Shaken and not stirred of course!

 

Reliving Past Rally Glory…in 1/10th Scale!

Having spent a lot of time driving tuned cars with brushless motor and oil damped suspension, I need to make clear that the Tamiya TT-02 is sold  as a starter car with a highly detailed replica body.

Performance of the brushed motor surprised me, it was as good as I remember them to be, quite happily spinning all 4 wheels on loose surfaces with the cross cut tyres biting into the dirt, throwing it rearwards as they propel the Lancia forwards. The speed controller was another improvement, allowing much more control than the old three speed wiper system.

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Love this colour scheme…pity its part of the past liveries of motorsport

I’ve mentioned a few times about the suspension, and I will say for approximately £20 you can get a full set of oil filled dampers, and it’s the one upgrade i would do. The standard shocks do what they are designed to do however, with the strong springs, it does make the car bounce about after a jump or on very rough terrain. On a smooth or relatively smooth surface, its a hoot to drive, and on gravel the Tamiya TT02 is quite capable of sliding and drifting about, more like the full size Lancia Delta.

It’s a fun car to drive and the overall package is so much more than just the drive; it’s the journey from opening the box, building, painting, stickering, finalising with the driving or displaying; whichever takes your fancy.

Building a Tamiya kit is a journey, no, a rite of passage that everyone should take, at least once…Who knows where it will lead you?

Available in the UK: HERE & HERE

Manufacturer: Tamiya

UK Distributor: The Hobby Company

Punching Well Above It’s Weight!

FTX Outback Tundra 1/10th RTR Scale Crawler/Trail Rig

Words and Images: Matt & Madison Ellis

UK RRP: £154.99 Available In UK: HERE Distributor: CML Distribution

Specs

  • Length: 416mm
  • Width: 200mm
  • Height: 230mm
  • Wheelbase: 250mm
  • Weight: 1350g
  • Gear Ratio: 1:88
  • Tyre Diameter: 105mm
  • Wheel Diameter: 54mm
  • Ground Clearance: 76mm

The term “Scale” can often be confused with the word “Expensive”. While it is true that most RTR offerings in the Scale/Crawler/Trail world are usually in the £350-£400 price bracket, a few companies have got wise to the growth in interest in this genre of RC vehicle and have released sub £200 RTR rigs that work just fine out of the box, but have the potential to be taken to another level of realism and performance, as and when the mood takes them (or cash resources allow). People often forget to just drive a new rig and enjoy it for what it is. They dive in and modify the heck outta them before actually learning how they handle straight from the box.

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Under £160 all in? Unheard of in Scale circles for a RTR…

Good Call CML

When I first spotted the FTX Outback press release and the prices, I had it in mind that this rig would be perfect to get my 8 year old daughter in to the hobby. So when the opportunity came my way from RCCZ to get my hands on one to review I jumped at the chance. With all that in mind though how do you fairly review an entry level product without comparing it to the more expensive rigs myself and the rest of the RCCZ crew often run. So rather than me review the Outback with all my old head preconceptions, I handed it to my daughter Madison for her to review as her first true Hobby Grade RC car. That’s a pretty big moment in anyone’s life…I hope you enjoy coming along for the ride with us!

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The traditional format of Scale Rig has been followed…from a Ladder Chassis to 4-link suspension

Before I hand over to Madison I don’t want you to think for one minute that this rig is some cheap entry level tat, the spec sheet would give a lot of more expensive RTR’s a run for their money. The Outback is Waterproof out the box and comes with aluminium suspension links and steering hubs as standard, the Outback also benefits from a 3 gear high torque transmission, locked front and rear axles and oil filled shock absorbers. Its also includes a very sturdy bumper (good enough to mount a winch without modification or strengthening and something I really was not expecting for this price; LED lights front and back (My double the price point Axial rig didn’t even come with them).

Unboxed N Dissected By A Discerning Consumer!

So the Outback has an impressive spec sheet but the proof for this little rig would be how it drives. So I put it in the hands of Madison here is what she had to say about the Outback I will give you the old head verdict after you have viewed the Outback through the eyes of a kid who hasn’t been worn down by bad RC purchases and told what she should N shouldn’t like…This is verbatim and in eight year old speak, so bear with her!

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The rig definitely punches above its weight in use…

“My name is Madison and the Outback is my first ever RC car. The first thing I liked about it was its soft tyres and the colour, its Blue and I really like the colour Blue! After my Daddy charged the battery we went to the local park because there are lots of hills there.

At first I thought it was a little bit fast but when I got used to it I found it really nice to drive. We got to drive through mud and puddles which was fun, we got to drive over an old tree which had fallen down. My Outback was able to follow my dad’s truck everywhere his could, even up this one really big hill (but daddy’s car got up first as it can go faster!)”

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Anything Dad can do, I can do just as well!

“I really liked the Outback because daddy and I got to go the park and have lots of fun together. The thing is, when he goes Drifting, the cars are too fast and hard to steer and I can’t really have a go. I really like driving the Outback we are charging the battery again ready for the weekend…”

That’s What Madison Thought…Now My Go!

Obviously when we were at the local park she also decided that she wanted to go and have a play on the swings (she’s 8 after all!) which meant dad could eventually have a turn with the new rig. And I have to say I was really impressed the Outback. For its price it’s a very capable little rig, even if at first you may think its not built as sturdily as others in the class…that’s just misguided preconceptions.

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The included 2.4GHz radio serves its purpose well and is both ergonomic and light in the hand

OK, so the throttle is a little punchy compared to other Crawler ESC I’ve used, but once you get used to the handset you have pretty good control over the power delivery. It is a little smaller than the likes of the SCX10, but its size doesn’t hold it back and once you get how it feels to drive,  it can go pretty much anywhere my SCX10 does.

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That tiny 370 can motor does struggle at extremes of terrain, but the rigs light so there’s a balance in the Force

Granted, some things can be a little more of a challenge as its only got a 370 can motor fitted, but I enjoyed that, it’s rather dull being able to get over everything with no effort. The Outback makes you plan your route a little more, which I liked. It’s back to basics RC and that’s what the industry needs more of at the moment.

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With true 4-link, double-triangulated suspension and a bumper sturdy enough to mount a winch…you simply can’t go wrong!

Scaling The Reservoir

We took the Outback out for a second run at Edgbaston reservoir. I really wanted us to give it some abuse this time, a torture test if you will, and truly test the limits of the outback. Madison went first and put the rig through its paces with ever growing confidence in both her abilities to drive it, and what it was actually capable of.

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This is what Trail Running and Scale Crawling is all about…the big and great outdoors!

Taking it through streams and over rocky waterlogged terrain, the FTX proved itself to be most definitely waterproof. She had it almost fully submerged at one point and it just kept going! When we hit certain boggy muddy patches the FTX struggled a little bit but we were getting towards the end of the battery run time, and being a NiMH its lost its punch, so that wouldn’t of helped. We re-charged the pack back at the car and I had a go myself and this led to me making a few conclusions of my own and also recommendations for end users of the rig.

Biasing Things Correctly

After this review I was going to swap out all the electrics for Madison, but to be honest it is fine the way it is. the battery life is okay, exactly what you would expect for NiMH battery, but the ESC is also capable of taking A 2S LiPo cell, so that’s a logical (and cheap upgrade). Also changing the location of the main pack to over the front axle under the hood is another that will drastically change the rigs weight bias and let it tackle steeper inclines and pull itself up and over certain obstacles it struggled with before.

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Changing the main packs position from rear to forward, improved the rigs abilities even further

Sadly as the wheels and tyres are pre-glued no weight can be added unless you attempt to de-bond and then re-glue them…not and easy or pleasant task. I wish they were beadlocks, but that would probably have added £20 to the RRP so I get why FTX have gone down their chosen route. CML Distribution sell a vast array of hop ups and after market bits for scale rigs and crawlers, so you could buy another set and weight them yourself with stick on strip weights.

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The three variations on wheel that FTX uses on the whole range…The Tundra has the most Scale of the lot as standard

Small But Plucky

As for the motor, it may be small, but the 1:88 gearing used is spot on for leisure crawling, trail running and having fun. The 370 sized brushed unit packs just enough punch to do what it needs, but it can struggle at times when the transmission is under duress, solid axles and drive shafts tend to put a lot more strain on motors, that’s why 540 can and high wind is the usual industry standard. Big torque usually requires big magnets. I live in hope that someone will come out with a third party motor plate to accommodate a 540 can in the future, or CML may get in a high torque, waterproof 370 can Brushless, Sensored combo designed for crawling? But again all that will push up the initial or future costs, so until then it stays as it is!

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I wasnt expecting LED’s as standard…that shocked me!

Big plus point for the Outback though is the minimal cost of upgrades. There are lots of little aluminium bits (Bumpers, Gear Housings, Battery Tray’s etc.) you can add to the Outback or any of its siblings that won’t break the bank. So it’s also a rig that can be improved as you feel necessary. Spares are also very well priced so should you break something when you are testing the limits of the FTX, you won’t have to spend a fortune to fix it.

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Nice and bright too…FTX lead, others follow

One thing to mention is that the bumpers have been designed in a way that they flex very slightly, but are strong enough to bolt a RC winch to and the rig will be comp ready. The supplied Tx may only be 2-channel, but you can get key fob remote winch controllers that uses Bluetooth to spool out and pull back in the cable, so that’s not biggie!

Quick Fixes

I will swap the servo horn for an aluminium one but that is me being picky it is something I always change straight away even in more expensive rigs. I will definitely upgrade the main pack for a brick pack LiPo, as the ESC is compatible and move it forwards on the chassis. This will increase the run times and add some weight bias over the front wheels. But that is about it really…for now!

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The main NiMH pack is smaller than a traditional ‘Stick Pack’ so easy to re-locate

I think if you are on a budget or looking to get your kids involved in the hobby you really can’t go wrong with this offering from FTX. CML have something in this range of rigs that many other brands don’t…true value for money RC, and that I feel, as do many on the RCCZ team is the future of helping the hobby to grow again both here in the UK and globally.

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The sub £160 rig next to my nearly £400 Axial…and they both managed the same things in testing

Yes, it will get criticised by the keyboard warriors on forums who like to stay loyal to whatever brand they are fan boys of, or those that only run high end kit, and often take things far too seriously. Yes its got a small motor, yes it has a all-in-one ESC and RX, and yes it only has a 3KG steering servo. But its light, and all the components work well together as a consequence.

If you stop and think for a second its not designed for someone wanting the pinnacle of a RTR Scale Rig. It’s a product that’s been designed to put a smile on a kids face, or as an adults first steps into true hobby grade RC, for the price of a gaming console. And it its very much fit for purpose on that count.

My daughter loves it, and I’ve been won over by it. For its price point it simple can’t be beaten…the gauntlet is now firmly laid down, I hope a few other manufacturers see the light and we see more sub £160 RTR rigs enter the market, but I doubt it somehow. I think FTX hit the nail on the head with this and the other variations in the Outback range.

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As a first Scale Rig, or for a child to get into RC it’s perfect…hats off to CML for bringing the Outback range into the UK

Now go get your own Scale Adventure, and we hope to see you at the UK RECON G6 in May and our own RCCZ Scale Nationals in the Autumn.

For more information on the whole range head: HERE

And for all things Scale, Trail, Crawl and Bash…keep your eyes peeled for more RCCZ articles very soon. We have some very cool stuff lined up!

I Need A Name…Not Just a Code Number!

Cross-RC PG4L 1/10th Scale Rig Complete Kit

Words & Images by Andy ‘Twinset’ Moore

Complete Kit Can be Ordered Here

UK RRP: £389.00

Required To Complete

  • Radio Gear (2.4GHz recommended) A 3 or 4-channel is recommended
  • Electronic Speed Controller, for brushed motor (with LiPo LV cut out)
  • Battery: 7.2v 6-cell Stick pack or 7.4v Brick pack LiPo equivalent
  • Charger: suitable chosen pack type
  • Tools and Paints to complete

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It Starts Over

Well, 2017 is winding up now; The next G6 is in May, the Nationals later in the year too, and I’ve just finished my latest Scale build!

Upon opening the box, one’s greeted with a selection of bags containing rear fenders, running boards etc., all stowed in the pickup bed of the truck. The cab section’s inside another box along with the windscreen parts.

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Everything packaged neatly and safe in transit

 

Once the cab and bed are alongside each other, it becomes apparent this is another big build Job. Thankfully, the manual’s in English this time and although it’s obviously translated, it’s been done quite well. The diagrams are plenty clear enough though. Most of the parts are sorted into lettered bags but the manual steps don’t refer to the lettering during assembly so a fair bit of time is spent flicking back to the front few pages of the manual in order to find what else is in the bag you’re looking for when trying to identify small parts in some steps.

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The body comes in two sections…this cab and flatbed section thats bolts to it

What I’d do next time is copy the first few pages and pin them to the wall in the garage for reference.

The first step is to assemble the gearbox – The PG4L has a 2 speed gearbox; gears are selected by a servo so the truck needs a 3 or 4 channel radio set for best operation – the 4th channel’s required to switch the headlights on or off.

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“E Rings are my friend…” Repeat after me…

The gearbox assembly is very straightforward; all the gears are retained by E rings though, so a decent set of needle-nose pliers or even a proper E-Clip tool will help. The backplate of the gearbox is also the motor mount – the motor position’s adjustable, Cross include an 18t pinion with the kit though.

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Once the motor’s in place, gear selection should be tested by powering the motor and selecting the gears by hand, just to make sure everything’s smooth before assembly into the chassis

TOP TIP: Cross suggest hooking the motor straight into a battery, but I’ve been advised not to do this, so just hooked the motor up to an ESC and receiver.

If the 2 speeds aren’t required it’d be easy enough to lock the box in one of the two ratios by running a zip-tie or similar, looped through the selector rod end, to a convenient anchor point on the chassis. As it was, my Carson radio’s got a 3 position 3rd channel so I’ve used that for gears.

The servo eventually mounts to the chassis to the rear of the gearbox and changes gear via a drag link running through a couple of fine springs – any standard servo is fine for this, I used a cheap Towerpro because I had one kicking about, but literally any standard sized servo will be fine.

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Any decent spec servo is fine for the shift function…even a pretty inexpensive TowerPro like this!

Many, Many Screw Variations…

By this point I’d opened every screw bag and emptied them all into a bowl – for some reason each little bag contained two different screws – One bag would, for instance, have a 10mm countersunk and an 18mm button head, and another would contain a 15mm cap screw and a 2.5mm countersunk – I was spending so much time trying to find the bags it was simpler to just dump the lot and sort thru them. There are at least 24 different screws on this truck, so that’s 12 bags of mixed screws – Life’s a little too short sometimes!

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Each chassis side comprises of a front and rear C-section rail joined with a spacer bar

Spring hangers and sub-frames are the first bits to go on, followed by the spacer frames for the running boards to mount to later on. The front shock towers do have body post holes moulded into them, but the PG4L doesn’t use them as it has a very sweet discrete body mount system fitted later on. Once the chassis’s part-assembled, all the mounts for the body and radio crate are assembled – these look quite similar to each other so it’s worth double checking them (I discovered). The gearbox and shift servo are also mounted now.

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The shift servo sits neatly on a central skid, and once set up correctly works flawlessly

The front bumper’s mounted to the chassis next – It’s a full-width chrome moulding with recesses for fog lights. There’s also a slot through which a front tow-point passes. The rear bumper is a whole sub-assembly which includes a tow-hook, mounting plates and a set of exhaust pipes on spring-steel hangers – Proper sweet!

Leaf Rear

The rear suspension leaf-spring assembly follows and then the axles – Step 13 in the manual covers assembly of a solid spool although a set of open diffs are also included but their assembly is not covered until the last page of the manual, almost as an ‘Oh, I forgot to mention…’ addition.

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Love em or hate em…leaf springs are the most realistic and classic form of suspension
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Stack as many or as little as you want…Fine-tune by removing or adding leaf’s…simple!

The diffs are also in their own little bag and I didn’t even find them until I was prepping the body

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I chose to build the diffs open…although for comp use or more extreme trail running, locking them is the way forward

It wouldn’t normally be too big a problem to swap a diff out but step 15 in the manual calls for the half shafts to be loctited into the diffs – It took a helluva lot of ‘persuading’ with a hammer to get the shafts back out – I fancied building the truck with open diffs just so it was a bit more steerable – Long wheelbases and locked diffs don’t do much for turning circles.

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Grease em well and they will last…simple advice, but worth heading for longevity

The axles themselves follow a fairly ‘industry standard’ pattern – the axle housings are one piece mouldings with a diff cover the diff or spools clamped into place with bearing retainers before the covers go on.

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Note the Bling of the Diff Covers…easily painted if this isn’t your thing!

Shims are supplied to eliminate any play in the assemblies.

Dogbones Not UJ’s

Drive to the front wheels is via dogbones and cups. Its not a big issue, but with many kits in this price range including UJ’s as standard it, would aid both the purchasers pocket and the turning circle (with additional steering deflection)

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Initially I was skeptical about dog bones and not UJ’s…but, I was won over in use
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Ahh, the old body clip in the axle trick…keeps the assembly together perfectly during the build

With the axles sorted, it’s shocks next – Yay, I really love building shocks…

The rears are friction units; internally sprung with a plunger with oiled O-rings provided the friction.

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Simple and yet effective…a little friction goes a long way
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Remember to also lube the ring gear and pinion before running

Whilst the rear axle’s leaf-sprung, the front axle is four linked and the front shocks are slightly more sophisticated, oil filled assemblies. My only reservation about the front shocks was that fit of the top caps weren’t great – it didn’t take a lot for the threads to skip, even when being hand tightened – They didn’t leak in use yet, but they don’t feel that sturdy. Using PTFE Tape on the threads may help, as will sealing the shocks well with AE Green Slime.

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Plastic Fantastic…Again I was a little skeptical at first, but they worked effortlessly in use…

The cap also includes a dummy/fake reservoir – not sure why this is deemed necessary; I’d much rather see them better made than made pretty…but again, a minor point in the scheme of things.

Two springs go on each shock; a stiff top-section and a softer rate main spring – Cross also include a second firmer set as a ‘free gift’.

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The twin spring setup offers different compression rates and rebound characteristics…great for fine tuning the rigs handling
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The front suspension is 4-linked to offer more than adequate articulation in use…

The shock bodies are threaded for ride-height adjusters.

TOP TIP: Steering Servo…A Little Issue

The steering servo’s mounted to the front axle directly but I did have a relatively significant problem here; the servo mount posts are so big one side gets in the way of the wire exiting the servo case. I ended up ditching the mount on that side and using a stock servo post I had kicking around – Bit of an oversight by Cross – I tried three servos; Futaba, Towerpro and Core and the wire fouled on the supplied ‘post’ on all of them. At a pinch the stock post could be cut down at the back to clear the wire.

22
Give the leaf springs a time to break in…they become more flexible after a few hours use

After the axles are attached to the chassis, it’s time for my next favouritest bit ever; wheel assembly – Yay!!!!!!!

Stay On Target…

The wheels take a bit of concentration as the wheels are made up of two of three different wheel-halves, used in combinations to make up front and rear, inners and outers

21
Read the instructions three times, think twice and build each wheel once!

The front wheel and the outer rear, for instance, used the same steel halves but what’s the inner half on the front wheel is the outer half on the rear. It takes a bit of processing power to grasp the concept, but it does eventually work.

23
Rows of two at the rear…

The wheels are driven by the usual 12mm hexes, the wheel nuts are hidden by a cap.

27
Crate, box, call it what you will its very spacious….

The radio crate is then fitted to the chassis – it’s not in the least bit waterproof as sections of the lid need trimming away for the battery cable to exit etc. So I drilled a couple of drainage holes in the base just in case any water ever does get in.

28
The lid incorporates space for the optional sound unit

The lid of the crate also doubles up as a speaker mount as Cross make a sound module for the P4GL. There’s also plenty of room inside the crate for an ESC, receiver and the light controller – I managed to get a Traxxas XL5 in there no problem.

The light control looks to be the same unit as used in the MC-8 truck I previously reviewed. The ESC, steering servo and third channel are connected to the board, then pass-out leads connect the board to its relevant channel on the receiver – This allows the board to control brake and reversing lights and turn signals/indicators.

29
6 Cell Stick Pack or LiPo Brick Pack, you decide!

The only slight issue is the truck’s headlights are controlled by the third channel – the problem is that the two-speed gearbox also needs a channel, so for full operation, a four channel (minimum) radio is required.

There’s no mention in the manual, and I couldn’t find anything online, about keeping the headlights on without using the radio so four channels are necessary unless the headlights are connected to the tail-light plug on the control board, at the expense of tail-lights (the tail-lights are permanently on for some reason).

One other point on the light controller is if the ESC is going forwards but the reversing lights illuminate, then a jumper socket has to be fitted to plug 15 on the controller.

This is covered in the manual as “Please plug short circuit cap if vehicle go ahead but brake lamps turn on” – Not exactly accurate, but the sentiment is there!

The lid of the radio crate’s screwed down, so it’s worth cutting/drilling holes for switches etc.

The LEDs are routed around the shell and the kit includes a lot of cable-clips with adhesive pads to keep the wiring out of sight. At this point the chassis’s a roller and it’s body time

26
Rolling Chassis Check! Body prep initiate!

 

Airbrush On…Sharpies Out!

The shell for the PG4L comprises of two mouldings – the main cab and the pickup bed.

31
Ther cab section ready for more primer…
32
Sand and clean between coasts for a better top coat finish…

Once painted, the bed’s screwed to the chassis but the cab’s semi-removable for access to the radio crate and battery tray.
I say semi-removable as the wires for the front lights go into the radio crate, so the cab’s only removable to about 6 inches from the chassis as it’s tethered by LED wiring unless the crate’s opened and the light wires are disconnected from the controller.

35
Stop, Reverse and Indicate…
33
My new best friend…Mr Sharpie

 

The pickup bed has rear light clusters made up of chrome plated reflectors and clear lenses. In order to colour the lenses I did contemplate painting them, even went as far as buying Tamiya clear red and orange acrylic paints, but then found an article online suggesting using Sharpie markers to colour the lenses instead. Duly bought a red and orange and they worked great – No masking needed, just a slightly steady hand.

34
The Sharpie trick worked a treat…

The lenses have lines moulded into the inside so getting a sharp break between the red, clear and orange lenses was dead easy, just offer the lenses to the reflectors periodically and colour-in a couple more lines are required. Note: Painting the lenses was one part I could see going wrong, so the Sharpie method really saved a “Twinset Tantrum”.

Bling Out…Rubber In

A lot of the trim for the body is chrome plated, even the door mirrors, but it seemed a little too ‘bling’ for me so I sanded the chrome off the mirrors and, after primer, airbrushed them Tamiya XF-85 ‘Rubber Black’. I also used this for the door handles and, eventually, for the window rubbers. Windscreen wipers are also included to finish the true-scale appearance.

Note: The chrome plating on the parts did prove slightly problematic when it came to gluing parts together, and the plating was very tough – I tried sanding it to expose bare plastic for the glue to melt, but in the end had to scrape away the plating with a Stanley blade.

The main shell was painted with AutoAir Colors’ Deep Purple which was kindly supplied by The Airbrush Company (www.airbrushes.com) when they sent the Sparmax Arism airbrush system which I first used on the MAN 8×8.

I didn’t realised until I was sold on the purple that the paint was ‘Semi Opaque’ so it took a lot of layers to get the colour right – Note to self; always read the label!

After a few coats and a few days drying the shell was looking good, and I topped it with Tamiya X-22 Clear for a really nice shine.

Cross supply checker-plate trim for the bottom edge of the shell, which runs the full length of the truck but I left this off for a more subtle look.

30
The running boards were painted separately and then bolted on

I used the checker plate on the running boards though; I think I got the balance about right – The front grille was painted black but a chrome insert shows through the slats of the grille so what with that, the bumpers, the running boards and the mirrors, it would’ve looked more like a disco-ball than a truck (I reckon)

37
Checker plate is like great if you use it sparingly

The cab attaches to the chassis by first hooking the nose onto a mounting plate, then two pins insert into cam locks attached to the pickup bed. To lock the cab in place, two levers are flipped and the cab’s proper docked, with no body clips in sight – Tasty scale body!

41
Losing some of the bling to a Matt Blk worked a treat with the Deep Purple

The only slight gripe I have is the windscreen – it’s only lightly tinted so all the wiring and the speaker box are clearly visible and the wires aren’t that easy to hide as they need to be slack to remove the cab. An interior would solve a lot of this, but that would necessitate removal of the speaker mount so the decision of sound kit or interior needs to be made.

TOP TIP: If the sound kit’s used, then the windscreen could do with a few coats of tint to hide the wiring.

Other than that, the finished truck looks superb (despite my paintwork)

40
Junk In its Trunk!…insert Beyonce or Kardashian joke here…

Anyone Know How To Treat Frostbite?

When it came to running the truck it was mid-December – Getting the paint right did take a week or so – I knocked it several times during final assembly and had to respray sections and that all took time.

When I did get the chance for a maiden voyage I set off for Burton Dassett early in order to catch the sunrise. Unfortunately, it was foggy and cold so not only did I not catch any sun, I got mild frostbite of the extremities.

39
The Cross looks the part…its stance aggressive and very scale

As the truck’s so long I fitted open diffs to both axles just to see how it handled. It’s got a good turn of speed, easily faster than walking pace but the diffs meant it was manoeuvrable too.

After a few blaps round the car park I took it off road onto the grass mounds. The diffs stopped it from doing any serious crawling, but any slopes taken with a run-up were scaled easily – the extra set of rubber at the back really helped. The grass was dew-soaked and traction wasn’t great so rear tyres almost 4 inches wide per side came in handy.

43
It performed as well as it looks…just remember the leaf rear and realistic ground clearance

Approach and departure angles are good too, despite the truck being quite low at the belly (around 50mm)

The front bumper is quite high above the wheel-centre and doesn’t stick out very far, so approach is easily 45 degrees plus.

Departure’s impeded slightly by the tow-bar, but that’s easily sorted if towing isn’t in the truck’s future. With the tow-bar, it’s around 30 degrees.

Having said that, the size of the truck might exclude it from a lot of the less-scale courses at the Nats but it would make the perfect truck for a comp-scaler and trailer or on a true-scale course.

Cross RC’s promo video for the PG4L does show it towing one of their trailers and it does definitely look the part https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XujZ0CvSGEs

Despite concerns during build, the front shocks held up fine; no leaks and the caps stayed put even with the four-linked front end offering a decent lump of articulation.

Steering lock was good too; the turning circle was smaller than I anticipated – no doubt partly due to the open diffs, so UJ’s aren’t needed after all unless you go locked and want to comp the rig!

The two speed box is a nice touch but I didn’t actually use it much – most of the time I forgot it was there. The intention now is to lock the rear diff up and swap the radio to a six channel Carson stick set, and control the gearbox from a momentary switch – Hold for first, release for second. That way the truck’s in second by default, with first reserved for grunt work.

When I first took delivery I was a little sceptical about the truck – It is big and possibly not as agile as some comp rigs, but I’ve seen similar sized rigs at the Nats (there’s a super-long ‘Chevy’ pickup competed for the last two events which is a similar size to the PG4L) and, once equipped with a winch and locked diffs I think it could ruffle some feathers – the gates might need widening a bit though!

I just wish it had a name – PG4L makes it sound a bit like a car body filler…

For more on the whole Cross RC Range head over to: Greens Models and we Hope to see you at the 2017 G6 and Nationals!

42
A huge shout out to Simon Green and Cross RC for the review sample…

G-Made A 4-Link

GMade Sawback 4LS 1/10th Scale Jeep kit

 

Available In UK: Here Globally Here

UK RRP: £299

Specs

  • Width: 234mm

  • Height: 255mm

  • Length: 463mm

  • Wheelbase: 287mm

  • Ground Clearance: 68mm

  • Weight: 1.7kg (without electrics)

My First G-Made

Having been into Rock Crawling and Scale going back as far as the original AX10 Scorpion, it’s always nice to get something different to build and test.

28
The Sawback evolved…4-linked and ready for action

The Sawback 4LS is a continuation of Sawback name but moving on from its previous Old Skool leaf sprung suspension, to more modern and capable four-link (hence the 4LS name). Now to the purists of the scaling world out there this could be a bad thing, but don’t worry the leaf sprung model is still for sale, in fact there are so many different options on the GS01 chassis range right now, including the Komodo that we reviewed earlier in 2016, and the original Leaf Sprung Sawback back in RRCi days, that it’s initially quite tough for anyone to choose which is best option for them. As the price points are all in the sub £400 bracket (so firmly in Axial territory), I guess it just boils down to just two factors:-

1: Leaf Springs or 4-Link Suspension

2: Body/Wheel Aesthetics

Lets give the Sawback 4LS A Go Then!

Opening the box I was welcomed by the wonderful Willy’s Jeep style body, I have to say I’m really impressed with the thickness of the Lexan, this should hold up to a good amount of abuse which is a huge plus. Next out where the plastic three piece beadlock wheels and MT tyres with inserts. I was a little disappointed when I took the inserts out to find they were just strips of foam rather than a proper cut foam, ring insert, but let’s move on and get into the actual build.

No Numbers or Letters…Just Build!

Getting everything set out on my dining table I was initially taken aback to not have any numbered/lettered bags in front of me. But luckily components are bagged in a way that helps you finish sub sections of the build process as you go along, so it’s not too bad.

2.5
Axles are built tough and trail ready

Opening the first bag and it’s straight into building the axles. The graphite mixed composite plastic of the axles feels quite good and should hold up to a fair bit of rock rash. The bevel gear and spool are all one piece which in some ways is a plus, you haven’t got the issue of screws breaking however the bevel gear and shaft are two pieces with it only being an flattened edge on the shaft that takes all the rotational force, normally there’s a pin that takes this force so it will be interesting to see how this holds up.

1.5
Internal gears mesh perfectly and are designed to take abuse

Dropping the none rubber shielded bearings into the axle housing I was a little disappointed and how loose the bearings for the bevel gear shaft were and they just fell out when turned over. This play is going to transfer through to the gear mesh in the axle and could cause premature gear wear if not resolved, so with this in mind I used a super heavy duty marine bearing grease rather than the tube of gear grease that’s supplied.

3.6
Greasing the Ring and Pinion gears is a must…Longevity is the keyword

Before the bevel gear and spool are dropped into the axle housing, you use two very small bearings with plastic inserts that you push into the axle housing these hold in place really tight, which is good. The next step is outer axle bearings which are held in by the ‘C’ hub on the front and the rear lock out on the rear. Now unlike most axles where the ‘C’ hub slides over the axle housing and is then screwed together. These knuckles simply bolt to the axle housing with two m3 nuts and bolts, I wonder how strong is this union of parts going to be long term? Especially when you add weighted wheels into the mix.

TOP TIP: Make sure you take note of the ‘C’ Hub rotation when putting them on, as you can put them on the wrong way round and get the Caster set incorrectly.

Once you’ve done this the next is to slide the axle shafts into the axle casing, the fronts are dog bone style and the rears and a nice solid shaft. When doing this make sure to get the right length shaft in the correct side. After the axles are in diff covers can be fitted, these are a metal type which is a nice touch. Moving to the front steering knuckles the bearings dropped in and were again a little on the loose side with the axle shaft placed in the knuckle arm it’s then held in with step screws simply screwed into the plastic of the steering knuckle.

4.6
The chrome diff cover added a nice bit of bling in an otherwise dark world…

The rear axle lockouts are held in the same way as the front C hubs with a bearing on both the axle casing and the lock out which is a nice touch (Some simply have a bearing on the outer edge of the lock out so this will help spread the load and make for a shared load.)

32dp For Durability

With the axles complete it’s then onto the transmission, this is quite a large item when compared to other kits out there, as most are just a robust buggy style transmission (like the AX10) with finer 48dp internal gears. In this transmission however it’s 32dp all the way, which is a good thing on one hand, as they will be able to take more load and they are far more durable.  But the negative of this is the greater noise that 32dp gears generate in use and their size.

5.5
32dp may generate more noise than 48, but it’s far stronger and lasts longer

When putting the transmission together pay close attention to the shaft sizes for each gear set as they are different, and if you do like I did when I first built the transmission…get them the wrong way round, it will not sit together or close properly. So, as I said, pay close attention to which way round they sit. With the sheer size of the transmission, and all the rotating mass, I was intrigued at G-Made’s use of tiny bearings. Now I know I keep going on about the bearings, but a smaller diameter bearing will not be able to take as much load and stress in use. and so may fail far quicker if put under duress.

6.6
The heavy duty alloy motor plate acts as a passive heatsink too…not that high torque motors produce excessive amounts of heat in use!

One thing I haven’t mentioned yet is the screws in this build. Unlike most RC kits you get nowadays, this kit comes with cross head screws rather than hex. On one hand everyone has cross head screwdrivers in their home. So in that respect, especially for a newcomer to the hobby, that makes tool choice simple. It reminds me of building a Tamiya to be honest, and they’ve got away with it on most of their kits for many , many years, so it no biggie. I just feel this slows down the build, and long term they just aren’t as durable as a hex headed bolt.

Use Threadlock On Anything Metal To Metal…

Another thing to note is that when bolting the end transmission housing together there’s no sign of NyLoc nuts at all. G-Made have used  standard nuts in this aspect of the build, so I highly recommend you check all screws and nuts after the first run to make sure they are all still tight (unless you use a small drop of thread lock on each…which is what I did!)

7.5
Links are also robust and well made

After you’ve built the transmission it’s then onto making the lower links and fixing them to the skid plate. Now the instructions show to screw the set screws into the alloy link and the screw the rod end on but I prefer to screw the set screw into the rod end first making sure to not go past half the length of the set screw once you’ve done this screw the rod end onto the link, now the reason for this is when you break a rod end it’s more likely that the set screw will come away with the rod end and if this happens you want the hex driver end accessible to get it out of the broke rod end to then put it into the new one without causing any damage to the threads of the set screw. After fixing the links to the skid plate the next job is to mount the transmission to the skid again with the transmission case there’s no Nyloc’s, but rather captured nuts so when putting the screws in make sure to add a little thread lock again.

8.5
The Skid, Transmission and Links in all their glory

Motive Power & Chassis Rails

Fitting the motor is next and you want to pay close attention to the pinions location on the shaft an make sure it’s not fouling the spur gear on the back edge, they adjust the mesh so there is just a little amount of play between the pinion and spur but not too much. It wasn’t until this point I noticed that there’s no slipper clutch in the transmission so being careful with the trigger finger when the wheels are bound up. Drive shafts are the next process and these are a universal joint style but unlike most the joint pivots are held in place with tiny E clips. This for me was the hardest part, not putting the clips in but finding the one that pinged off across the room and took me an hour to find on a plus I did find an unopened, in date bag of Haribo behind the sofa (long story!) so it wasn’t all bad…

9.5
A little more bling with the C Section Steel ladder chassis…

With the drive shafts done the next step is the chassis itself and this is a little different from most as the actual chassis rails bend in at the front and back a little like a real truck chassis which is a nice touch. The main reason for this is the large width of the transmission and the also to give enough clearance for the shocks through articulation which is a nice touch but this does limit space for upper links. Fixing the shock hoops body posts and side step brackets is the first few jobs although no side steps are provided in the kit but are an optional item that you can buy. These are all fixed to the chassis with m3 screws and serrated flanged nuts so nip these up and they should hold fairly well. After that you make the short upper links and mount them to the chassis. I was happy to see they used NyLoc’s here.

10.5
The whole chassis can be built in just a matter of minutes

With that done the next stage is bolting everything to the chassis rails, I found it easier to just put the captive nuts in the one side and then mount the rail to that side first as they have a tendency of falling out when you’re trying to line everything up. I really quite like the receiver box with its fake V8 engine cover although it would look better a little further forward but then this would in turn get in the way of servo clearance through suspension travel. What is a shame is that it’s not waterproof it would have been so much better if it was sealed. Never mind a balloon will have to do. This box also has a shelve for the esc but for me this seams the perfect place to mount a small 2000mah 3s LiPo, Now if you have a big stick pack style battery there is the rear mount brackets and it’s a good idea to still put these in but I wanted to move the heavier item forward to help with weight distribution.

RC Performance over Scale Realism

11.5
They may not look 100% “Scale”…but hey work a treat!

The next stage of the build is the shocks, these are GMade XO aeration 93mm shocks now there not the most scale looking shock as they are 14mm wide and that’s just the shock body. But, this is a huge advantage for smooth feeling shock travel. They go together very easily and are soon put together, the shock oil that’s supplied has no label on it so no knowing what weight it is though. Without knowing I decided to go for the three hole pistons, Springs supplied in the kits are 19x 58mm medium rate which I think may possible be a little heavy for a fairly light weight rig like this some soft springs would definitely be on my list of parts at a later date. With the shocks bled and built it’s then on fixing them to the chassis rails and mounting the axles, this all went relatively easily however I’m not sure how strong the servo plate will be using the two screws that also hold the upper links to the axle

12.5
Almost a rolling chassis….almost!

While I was at this stage I decided to sort out the electrics. With funds being tight this time of year it was a case of parts bin diving in the garage. I managed to find my original 35turn Turnigy motor which I gave a skim and new brushes. ESC duties would be taken by an old Castle Creation Mamba Max setup for brushed motors. Servo and receiver duties were taken by some Tactic electrics I had left over from an RTR the servo isn’t the best but I think sometimes budget builds are the most fun as you have less at risk. I was a little disappointed that when fitting the servo there was no servo horns supplied in the kit, luckily I had a spare in one of my many boxes of bits that fit.

Rear Bed Limits ESC Positioning

The steering links were soon fitted and travel of the horn was centred quickly. Now as I said I wanted to mount a LiPo up front to try and improve weight distribution and for the purpose of the review I simply double sided taped the LiPo in place. This then meant I had to find some where to mount the esc, for this I used the front of the battery mounts. One thing I didn’t notice until id fitted the shell was there is quite limited space for an ESC at the back when you have the body on due to the shape of the rear bed, luckily there was just enough room for the Mamba Max.

13.5
Front weight bias and centreline balance had been designed in

Wheels and tyres next and the plastic three piece beadlocks went together fairly easily, Gmade supply two longer 16mm screws to help build the beadlocks, you use the two long ones to clasp the parts together then fit the other four screws in place then swap the long two out for normal size ones, and do the same for each of the following wheels…

14.5
Once they have been used a little to break the outer surface…the tyres hook up surprisingly well

In my manual there was an amended page simply stapled over the original page simply saying to use M2.6 x 10mm screws instead of the originally stated M2.6 x 6mm. This is good to see that they have seen an issue and amended it before it got out to the masses. The tyres do not feel the softest out there but for a kit compound they’re not to bad, the inserts are soft which should be ok if you keep this as a fairly light weight rig but add to much weight and I’d possibly look at some firmer inserts at the least.

16.5
The Beadlock wheels look the part and offer wheel tuning options that glued on wheel/tyre combos can’t
15.5
The wheels just look the part…not too bling…not too bland

 

Rolling Chassis Build…Body Next

The last job to do is the body shell now as I’ve said I really like how thick the lexan is on this I threw a quick gold and black paint scheme on it with the black on the outside of the Lexan to give it a more satin look. With the paint left for a day to fully dry I could then get to fitting the interior and cage which is a very nice scale touch. The manual clearly shows you what size holes to drill in each spot and once that’s done you can simply screw on the seats and steering wheel all the other items are simply held in with an o ring and a body clip for easy removal if needed. With the body done there’s only one thing left to do, Go test it.

17.5[7]
A true rolling chassis…now to add the electrics
18.5
The servo, being axle mounted isn’t the most scale looking aspect…but again it works a treat, and doesn’t suffer bump steer
19.5
That ledge behind the radio box is intended for the ESC…
20.5
Time to get the body painted and fitted

It’s a G Thang…

 

Taking the rig out to my local trail area to see just what I think of the 4LS Sawback I was happily surprised with the stock gearing on a 35 turn motor and 3s Lipo I was expecting it to be a bit too quick but flat out it but it’s just a little quicker than a quick walking pace which should be perfect for taking on country walks and generally just messing about with. As I’d suspected, the springs are a little firm and the rig bounced around a bit if I was just driving along the muddy foot path but in some ways I think this is the charm of a rig like this. If you look up old videos of Willys Jeeps they are all bouncy.

25
The rig handled everything I threw at it…and a few more things it found all by itself!

Taking it over some large mud piles I was quite impressed with how well the rig did everything I pointed it at it would make its way up. Traction wasn’t amazing but with some wheel speed everything was possible. The firmer suspension made for some impressive side hilling but of course reduced articulation which you just had to learn its driving style. I was out on the walk for a good half hour and really started to enjoy its characteristics.

24
THe C Of G is low and side hilling a breeze

I would have been out longer but the last Formula 1 race was on and I wasn’t going to miss that. Now the big question is would I go out and buy one? Well if it hadn’t been for the cross head screws it would have been a definite yes however, for me personally, that was a major negative but for most people that will be a nothing.

26
Cocking its rear leg….something you get used to on certain inclines/obstacles…and simply drive through

All in all it’s not a bad lower budget rig it looks cool I really like the shell with the fold down windscreen and cage it’s crying out for a driver figure and some scale accessories . When I got the rig back and gave it a post trail inspection, quite a few screws that I hadn’t thread locked had come loose which may be my fault but it’s definitely something to keep an eye on, there’s no thread lock in the kit so it’s wise to pick up a little bottle.

29
Just enough detail to fool the eye…and yes, I need a driver figure!

If you’re looking for something to just take on walks then this is spot on, with some tweaks I’m sure it could be quite a capable rig and would look so cool with a military scheme.

30
Inclines and steps were taken in its stride…

For more on the GMade Sawback 4-Link click here

And don’t forget the UK Recon G6 hosted by RCCZ on May 27th, 28th & 29th 2017 at Bracken Rocks Derbyshire DE4 5AS…I hope to see you there!

Are You Ready To Rock?

rcz_tech-mi

RC4WD Bully II MOA RTR Competition Crawler

Words & Images: Scott ‘AceofAxe’ Curlin & Andy ‘Twinset’ Moore
Available Globally: HERE or in UK: HERE
Current Price: $589.99
Spec
  • CNC Machined Alloy Axles
  • MOA (Motor On Axle)
  • Wheelbase: 317mm
  • Width: 254mm
  • Height: 182mm
  • Ground Clearance: 92mm
  • Final Drive Ratio: 40.7 : 1
  • Weight: 1.99Kg
rc4wd-069
The MOA Comp Crawler is back!…Introducing the Bully II

Prologue…

In 2010 while I was on “Holiday” in a very hot and sandy place, a buddy of mine ordered a comp crawler. When it came in he brought it to my attention as he knew I was an RC guy. I was just starting to look at the crawler and scale scene, but was still busy trying to make everything I owned go faster, and survive bigger, and bigger jumps. I was a basher through and through and didn’t have time for any other aspects of the RC car world. Sure, I have always loved racing but didn’t have a proper place to do that at the time. So, I focused on making my bashers faster and stronger. Then he brings this crawler to my attention. At first I was stubborn and said why in the world would you want to crawl when you can jump? But he convinced me to watch him on some rocks we had at work. I was interested in the articulation it had going over the obstacles he ran up and over, and was intrigued with its ability to get over some of the bigger rocks. He then handed me the transmitter and I set off on my first crawl. I was immediately hooked and needed one of my own. So, after that I went inside and started to look into my options. I saw the one he had, but thought I should get something different. I ordered a cheapish RTR and waited, and waited…(It took quite a while to get mail where we were).

Bad Move

By the time it came in I had found something else shiny and had changed my mind on crawlers. But it was there, and I wanted to at least try it. I took it out of the box and immediately noticed a lot of plastic on it. It didn’t look very bulletproof to me. But, I loaded in the batteries and gave it a go. I turned it on, tried driving up a wall and over a few objects, I very quickly decided it needed to go back. I had bought a crawler that looked cool, but couldn’t crawl very well. I boxed it up and sent it back. The car I replaced it with help me to launch my YouTube channel so it wasn’t all bad…but that was it for owning a true crawler for a while.

0.7
Scale has been my thing for a while now…Here I am with Mr Brian parker himself at the 2016 UK RECON G6

Once I returned home, eventually I got into the scale scene and started to regret letting that crawler go, but everything happens for a reason. I bought one other shafty crawler after that, but I quickly converted it to a scale rig and that ended me owning a real crawler once more. I met Peter Gray and the RCCar.Zone (Formerly RRCi) team in 2010 and have been introduced to many other forms of this great hobby and have gained an appreciation for each one. But I always said I want another, true crawler, I felt like I was really missing out on something.

FFWD To 2016

Pete, being the mate he is, remembered my interest in a owning a ‘real’ crawler. He rang me up recently and said he had a RTR that needed to be reviewed. It was even a Motor on Axle (MOA) design, so something I wanted to run even more. Knowing how this aspect of the market had almost disappeared of late, I thought was it was probably a cheaper brand that would be shockingly bad and resemble something from the toy section of your local grocery store. He assured me however it was (and I quote) “Pure Quality” and I should wait before passing judgement…so I did!

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MOA rigs have been neglected for too long, now RC4WD offer us an affordable, complete solution

I turned up to his house a couple weeks later and saw the normal stash of incoming reviews in the hallway. The only crawler I could see was an RC4WD one. This couldn’t be it? Do they even do a Comp crawler anymore? The answer was yes, and it was mine to review! After a quick look at the box I learned a bit more about it. The RC4WD Bully II is a MOA RTR, its the second generation of the Bully MOA rig that Pete himself reviewed many years back, and that he put on the cover of the RRCi Crawler Special he wrote back in the day.

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The dimensions of the rig at a glance…

He was handing me the responsibility of both reviewing this rig, and also trying to help with my ongoing learning curve of all things RC. A MOA is something I had never run before, and learning about its nuances and the very different driving style required would be very interesting.

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Having never owned or run a rig of this calibre…I was intrigued at its abilities

Being MOA it means that each axle drives independently, so they can be Front only driven, rear only driven and by letting the drag brake keep the un driven axle locked up completely, they act as a front or rear dig. All this functionality can be easily controlled with the included 3-channel transmitter. As a one box solution its a great way onto MOA rigs and much cheaper than actually buying the components separately and building your own. I couldn’t wait to get this home and get it out of the box!

The Box Art Sets The Scene

Once I got back home, I took the box into the office and immediately opened it. But not before truly admiring the box art. The picture on the box is a great shot of the Bully II on the rocks. It truly inspires you to get it out of the box and on to the rocks as soon as! When you see this box in store with all the other boxes, it completely stands out. A lot of other companies have static pictures of their kits. Whether sat in a black background or on a track somewhere. But this shows it in its natural environment and truly makes you want to discover new lands with it! On the side of the box there are listed some of the official RC4WD hop ups for it, and even more great photos of it on the rocks! The exterior of the box is just loaded with Hi-res pics that make you want to charge a battery and hit the rocks!

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Great Promo Images from RC4WD…they make me want to hit the rocks straight away!

Once open, the rig comes out on a sliding cardboard stand as most of us are used to. The transmitter is securely fastened beneath the rig and inset into the base. The manual and spare parts are located under the cardboard base. The manual is a picture based manual, as we have come to know and love from RC4WD. The spares contain a battery strap, optional springs for the shocks and some flat bits of Lexan. I was wondering what the Lexan was for until I noticed they were body panels. These are easily attached to the Bully if you want to add a bit of colour to it. They are also ready to be painted with a protective sheeting on one side just like the normal shells you are used to. I opted to paint mine red as a contrast to my normal Blue?Green I tend use on everything I race.

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Note the elongated Delrin skid and high clearance Titanium links

The transmitter was one of the biggest surprises for me. It’s the new XR4 4 channel radio. I have never had a RTR radio with 10 model memory! You can buy relatively cheap receivers for your other kits and control them with this radio!

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10 Model memory, LCD Screen, 3-Channel…great spec for a RTR 2.4Ghz TX

The radio has all the trimmings (see what I did there) that you will find on the high dollar competitors. It also allows you to name each model with its 3-digit display. For this one I named it MOA, that way I know which rig is on memory one. There’s a backlit LED display screen that makes selecting all the functions a dream. But enough about the transmitter let’s talk about the Bully II!

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Articulation is the keyword in Crawling…and the Bully II has it, and then some!

Serious Stuff

Straight away the high clearance lower arms let you know this is a serious comp rig! The carbon fibre Twin Vertical Plates (TVP) look almost as good as they perform! When you want light weight and strength, it’s hard to beat Carbon Fibre! The twin Boost 35t rebuildable motors are exactly what I would put on a crawler kit if I was building one, so that was a nice choice by RC4WD, in my case at least.

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The included 6V 5A Turbo BEC is fine for the supplied steering servo, but go any higher spec and you will need to upgrade

The 6v – 5 Amp BEC is a great choice as well! I run one of those on my RC4WD Beast II and it performs flawlessly! The RC4WD Outcry Brushed Speed Controller with built-in drag brake is the perfect speedo for this rig and simply gets the job done!

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The twin motor ESC allows you to drive each axle independently, so front and rear dig functions are possible

When coupled with the included Rocker Electronic Dig/ESCit proves to be an almost unstoppable combination! The servo is the Twister Metal Gear Digital Servo that is rated at 153oz @ 6v. It seems kind of low for a comp crawler, but it is a RTR and it must work or it wouldn’t be in the kit. But the rocks will reveal all!

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The classic COG test of any comp rig…Not amazingly scientific, but looks coll nevertheless

The only thing I did notice on the Bully was the routing of the motor wires. The front motor wires ran down the lower links and attached to the bottom of the motor. I was a bit concerned as I knew these areas were very open to abuse from the rocks. I quickly re-routed them and plugged the motor wires into the top plugs out of the way. But enough of all this tech talk it’s time to hit the rocks.

I headed up to Derbyshire for our RCCar.Zone Scaler Nationals. I took along the Bully and was planning on testing it at our comp site in Bracken rocks. The night before we were at John Wasley’s house having a drink or more and they all got talking about the glory days of comp crawlers and how I had missed it. They knew I had the Bully with me and were basically setting me up for a trial run on John’s rock garden course. I immediately agreed and we were off to the garden…well I say immediately, I needed to find a suitable 2S LiPo first to fit on the tiny plinth on the front axle, next to the steering servo.

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the steering servo sits on the front axle and is offset to allow a small LiPo to be placed next to it
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Note that rear clearance. Thats why its important to tuck away those motor wires to avoid them being damaged

I was the first one to drive it of course, and I was really enjoying it. John along with Twinset and Pete were giving me tips as I went along. I could see how great the Bully II was, because even with my very basic crawler skills it was making most of the obstacles. John told me to try the dig. To be honest I had completely forgot about it. I hit the slider button on the front of the transmitter and the rear tyres locked. This allows the Bully II to turn by pivoting on its axis, with the front tyres moving and the rear tyres locked in position. It makes for very tight turns and the ability to position the rig accurately ready for your next obstacle or gate. Using the dig you can take approaches to gates that a non dig enabled rig wouldn’t ever attempt.

You can also lock just the front tyres and power it with the back ones and have a front dig. This actually helps get up almost impossible looking ledges as you can lock the front wheels in place holding onto the ledge as the rear wheels push the rig upwards and load the chassis almost like a spring. Then at just the right moment you start the front wheels drivi9ng again and it often magically lifts itself up onto the ledge. You  Just simply select which dig you want to use via the 3-position switch.

I decided to hand it over to the old pros and really see what it could do. I wasn’t disappointed. These boys know how to crawl and made my efforts look childish. I couldn’t wait to try it out at the old stomping grounds the next day. You see, Bracken Rock was home to the Crawler Nationals for many years. But when Comp Crawling started to get taken a bit too serious, the fun-loving group decided to switch over to Scale. That’s why we now have the Scaler Nationals there! I charged a couple batteries for the next day had another drink and went to bed thinking about the Bully on the rocks!

Learning To Dig Real Crawling

Next day was the UK Scaler Nationals. We got there early, briefed the drivers made sure they all knew where they were going and headed out to the trails. This year I was judging course three and decided it would be a great place to run the Bully. So after about 6 hours of scoring the course it finally started to slow down a bit. I went and asked my favourite photographer (Twinset) to do a shoot for me. He was happy to oblige and we headed out to the rocks.

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Tyres are a very stick, soft compound with micro block type tread. They grip amazingly well on most dry rock, or hard surfaces, only really suffering in damp and mossy areas

One thing very different from John’s home course was mud, grass and water. I was hoping the Bully Comp Tyres would do ok on the added elements. They were definitely soft and had a great tread for dry rocks, but I was a bit concerned about the wet. I sat off onto the marked trail. 10 gates set out for 1.9 and 2.2 scalers. In theory it should be relatively easy for the Bully. The first gate was easy enough. The second was a tight left turn around some rocks. I selected the dig and easily went right around it. The next gate was up a double rock that was a bit steep. I drove the front tyres onto it and noticed it kept trying to wheelie, which would have obviously flipped the rig on its back. Then I decided to use dig again. I locked the back tyres and drug them up the steep face of the rock with just the power of the front wheels. That was really cool looking by the way. I could get used to this crawling thing!

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The Bully II handles anything you throw at it, and mastering its true abilities is a joy

Gate 4 would really test the tyres as it was a side hill. The Bully creeped across the rock face without any slippage and no problems! Gate five was a drop down that you had to climb up to. The climb was a deep V shaped area between two rocks. The Bully had no problem making up the surface and then I used dig to pull myself round to the drop won. Doing the drop down, the drag brake held flawlessly. We even left it there for a few minutes as Twinset got some great pics of it.

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The tyres hook up on most surfaces, but perform much better in the dry

Gate 6 was a quick up and over. It was a log that proved to be difficult for some scale rigs, but was just a speed bump to the Bully. Gates 7 and 8 were just two off camber inclines that were no match for the MOA rig. Gate 9 had some tall grass on the sides that I found wrapped around my axles, but I made it through the gates.

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This log was breezed up and over….no ‘Clod Stall’ or issues

Gate 10 would be the only gate I couldn’t finish. It was a steep, slick incline that nearly everyone that made it through had to use a winch. I obviously didn’t have a winch, but I could have definitely benefited from some axle weights here!

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THis is about as extreme as it gets…With a little more front weight bias, it would make it

Overall I am very, very impressed with this rig! I had a blast with it and learned a lot about driving as well. The included dig was a huge bonus that really opened up some options on the course! So now for the pros and Cons

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Off camber sections and side hilling is also easy to tackle, the very low GOG helping immensly

Pros

  • Front & Rear Dig function, Drag Brakes and Twin ESC
  • Tough Steel Internal Heavy Duty Gears
  • Lightweight Carbon Fibre and Delrin Wheels
  • Bully 2.2″ Competition Tires (Advanced X2SS Compound)
  • High Clearance Titanium Links
  • 10 Model Memory 2.4 GHz 3-Channel Tx
  • Carbon Fibre TVP Chassis
  • It’s A RTR (Just needs main pack)
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Letting the rig ‘Relax’ into the surface is the best option, slow and steady the mantra

Cons

  • Servo was a bit weak considering loads placed on it in use. It worked, and I got through the course, but I think it would definitely benefit from a more powerful servo and 10 or 20A BEC
  • The wire routing to motors was a bit of a concern. But this was easily remedied. My concern is someone new to crawling or RC in general may overlook it. This could result in a broken or shorted wire…
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Drop offs are also easy as long as you remember when to gun the throttle and when to let the drag brakes do their thing

Final MOA Thoughts

Great product! The servo was a bit of a let-down as a seasoned RC guy, but in the end, it is RTR so if you knew no better, in most situations it actually wouldn’t bother you that much! At extremes of lock or axle articulation it can get stuck in one position without the physical power to move itself back to where you want it to go.

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The most fun i’ve had driving a rig slowly since I started in RC

The wires and their routing to the motors were just a quick fix so that’s not too bad. But the Pros outweigh the Cons tenfold! I could have talked for days about the pros, but I left it to the few above that are the key points. Having both front a rear dig is a great tool when out on a comp course, or just crawling for fun! It is the first rig I have ever had that has this feature, and after using it, it definitely won’t be the last! All in all you need one of these! I would love to see Comp Crawling make a comeback. It became a competition of who had more money last time and that’s what killed it! Companies got to money hungry and started rigs were quickly entering the multiple thousand-pound range as they were being modified. But I believe RC4WD got it right and offer a great comp crawler ready to go for well under £1000!

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Even letting a wheel hang between rocks is possible…then using the front axle only to generate grip and grad the rear up and over the gap

Get yourself a Bully II and let’s make Comp Crawling Great Again!

Available Globally: HERE Current Price: $589.99 or in UK: HERE

Forget Throttle & Steer…Try Throttle, Yaw & Roll!

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Kyosho’s 1/18th G-Zero ‘Drone Racer’

Kyosho Main Page: HERE

Available in the UK: HERE

UK RRP: £249.99  Available: Late November

SPEC: Length: 302mm (with guard), Width; 300mm (with guard), Height; 65mm, Gear Ratio: 5 : 1, Weight: 130g approx, Motor: 8.5mm coreless, Battery: 3.7V-1000mAh, Propeller: 5”, Flight Time: 10 Minutes/Variable, Charging Time: 1-2 hours (depending on 5v USB Amp Output), Speed: 30km/h approx. (normal specification)/34.5km/h approx. (with 20° propeller angle setting)/38km/h approx. (when using optional parts), Flight altitude: Low 35cm/High 60cm approx. (setting can be changed using software application).

Fly-Drive-Race

As someone that’s heavily into both Multirotor and RC cars I was intrigued to learn on the RC grapevine a few months back that Kyosho were releasing a product they called the ‘Drone Racer’. Early images of it showed a very futuristic and yet thin side profile. It was very reminiscent of craft seen in the classic PlayStation game Wipe-out, or an evolution of a Formula E race car crossed with one of the Pod Racers seen in the Phantom Menace.

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Part futuristic F1 car, part Pod Racer…Wipeout was a big influence I’m convinced

The initial reaction from the core Kyosho fans, and strangely the car community was very positive. The existing Drone Racing community didn’t seem to get it, and some even ridiculed it initially, but then this wasn’t a Drone Racer in that sense at all. In fact, the biggest shock and polariser of the whole concept was the steering wheel car type, surface remote. That got more questions of “How?” on social media than any other part.

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The body/cowling makes a huge difference to the overall look…

Then things went very quiet for a while until the 23rd of September at a Drone Racer recital at the Japan Model Hobby Show. A buddy of mine Francesco attended and I watched transfixed as four of these craft raced their way around a course at the show, streaming live on his Facebook page. My interest level went through the roof, so I immediately got onto Kyosho UK and arranged this review. The actual retail stock looks to be hitting the UK in late November, so perfect timing for Xmas for anyone stuck what to get themselves, or a RC/Drone/Tech lover (delete as appropriate) for Xmas.

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Without the shell, the airframe is pretty sleek and narrow

Even More Torment!

Just before the sample physically arrived, just to torment me further, Kyosho released this YouTube video:

I wanted to review one even more! Then thankfully the door bell went, and a box arrived by courier. Just inside the box was a note saying I had just a few days with the sample, as it was one of only two in the UK and was needed by the UK reps to show retailers, I shelved anything I had to do in the next 48 hours and quickly finished unboxed the Drone Racer.

You can see my first thoughts after the unboxing on a Facebook video: HERE

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That rear spoiler is more cosmetic than to achieve any downforce, but who cares! it looks cool!

The drone itself is very light and sits at just over 300mm x 300mm. The Lexan body looks like a futuristic f1 car and really suits the genre of product. I’ve been a big advocator of body shells on drones as the standard ‘White for a filming platform’ and ‘Naked Carbon Fibre with alloy standoffs’’ for a race drone is starting to look a little old hat of late.

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The prop guards are necessary items. They will protect the props in use and ensure many flight hours before needing replacement

The drones H chassis design is only about 35mm or so wide along its spine, with a Sonar sensor array and battery holder on the underside, and on the top a 5v out accessory port (For a future FPV Cam possibly?), an LED port (for additional LEDs I’m guessing) and Infra Red Sensor (for a lap timing system and app Kyosho will be selling soon), standard mini USB port, a Bind and then clickable ‘C’ and ‘A’ buttons.

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An array of ports adorn the upper surface of the airframe. From bind and function buttons, to Infra Red and USB

Indicate & Identify

Both sets of arms have RGB LED strips built into them, and these can be changed at the front to any one of six colours (White, Blue, Yellow, Green, Pink or Blue) to help identify your drone if you intend to race it.

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The arms LEDs offer an indication of the Drones status…with bright front and rear LEDs mimicking headlamps and tail light

On the rear arm they change automatically to any one of four colours to indicate the drones status. This is simple to understand and the colour codes are as follows:-

  • Red : flashing = Low Voltage Warning, Solid Red indicates safety function is released and the quad is now armed and ready. Once flying the LED’s remain on to act as a tail light.
  • Yellow : Indicates the transmitter is not connected , so quad goes into failsafe/Emergency stop mode.
  • Green: Flashing indicates drone detecting horizontal axis, when solidly lit it indicates the drone is ready but safety function is still Active
  • Blue : Solid blue means Gyro calibration in progress
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Visibility in the dark indoors or out will never be an issue…

0, 10 or 20 Degrees Of Tilt

The arms also can be tilted to any one of three locked angles via the use of additional (but supplied) arm holders. These upper clamps hold the arms at either a 0-degree, 10-degree or 20-degree attack angle. Kyosho call it ‘VPUS’ or Variable Propeller Unit Structure. Marketing jargon aside, what this does is increase the forward speed of the quad in flight as the props are already pulling the craft forward because of the angle. Set at 20-degrees it jumps from the stock 30km/h at 0 degrees, to just under 35km/h and it also has an added advantage of flying better if there’s a slight breeze too. It tends to be able to cut through it better, rather than being blown off track (as can happen at the 0-degree setting).

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The props are easily replaced as is the motor, gears or prop guard

To seasoned quad racers this speed isn’t going to be mind-bendingly fast, but to most RC fans, especially the more car orientated, it’s a fast enough pace to have a good old race at, and more importantly, to have lots of fun with!

Charging…Charging…

The 1s (3.7v) 1000mAh LiPo included in this retail package takes between 1 and 2hrs to charge, all dependent upon the ampere rating of the USB socket you plug the included charger into. Now most PC’s offer quite a low Amp rating, so I opted to use a USB wall plug I had spare, rated at 2A and 5v, this peaked the pack in under an hour. As a rule of thumb, if using a computers USB port, USB 1.0 and 2.0 ports can deliver up to 0.5A; with USB 3.0, that moves up to 0.9A. By using a dedicated charging wall plug like I did, you can expect anywhere between 1.5A and 3A, drastically improving charge times.

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Included are spare props, a USB lead and USB charger for the 1S pack

By charging at 2A this gave a good ten minutes of mixed throttle fly/drive/hover time, and I’m sure that will improve once the battery has had a few cycles. The battery is a long flat, oblong and slightly wider than many fitted to other quads in the fun sector of the market. I have other packs with the same lead fitted, but all were a different size and lower mAh rating. This means that unless you can source a direct comparative cell by a third-party manufacturer, you will have to purchase official Kyosho spares, if you want multiple cells to enhance your fun.

“A Steering Wheel, But It’s A Drone?”

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Yes it’s a steer wheel, get over it! this is a Hybrid vehicle if ever there was one

Now, that was the reaction I got from most of my Drone flying buddies when I first revealed the Kyosho to them. They simply didn’t get it. All are used to flying stick radios. All use pitch and roll in combination to get the type turns they require. How could a wheel transmitter offer the same kind of control? Well…to put it bluntly. It doesn’t.

In use, the Drone Racer is more like piloting a very sophisticated Drift Car/Hovercraft hybrid than a Quadcopter, and for its intended market, that’s not actually a bad thing. The electronics built into the flight controller mix Yaw and Roll together and as you twist the wheel, the craft turns, offering quite a flat almost drift like Yaw turn, but with a small amount of roll mixed in. You can adjust the speed and amount of turn in relationship to the users input using the rotary knobs on the Tx, as can you trim each channel to offer a neutral point for the Yaw/Roll function and the throttle. Both important if there seems to be any slight drifting on any axis while in a straight, on the spot hover.

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Adjustment of trim, rate and feel during flight/hover/driving is all via the Tx

You must remember however that this Quads built in sensors are for Height Hold only. Two Sonar sensors pointing down help maintain one of the two available pre-set heights you select via the transmitters 3 position thumb switch on the grip. The other position being to land the Drone! At a moderate pace, they react fast enough to lift the drone up over an object, so on say a 1/10th Off Road track you can see the Drone rise in relation to the up ramp of a jump, then settle back to a constant height after the Drone descends the down ramp, or clears it completely.

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The Syncro Tx looks almost as futuristic as the Drone Racer itself!

Go too fast however and there’s a chance the Drone will hit the object before its sensors have compensated for its height. That’s when I found the highest of its two settings is best for this type of terrain. On a flat or semi-undulating terrain go to height one and everything’s smooth as butter. The Drone will compensate for small changes in surface seamlessly. Over rough terrain or where there is a series of objects much higher than the Drone is travelling, the second height is king.

A Fleet Of These Racing = Wipeout 2017

The best analogy I can use for the Kyosho Drones racer and its look and feel when being piloted is the game ‘Wipeout’. Now for this not familiar with the Sony PlayStation gaming franchise. Wipeout and the driving game Ridge Racer where two of the seminal launch titles on the original PS1. Wipeout captured the imagination of gamers by combining futuristic hovering race craft, with pumping electronic music and sweeping almost Tron-Esq tracks. Now Kyosho must have had a design brief of some sort when the project was first initiated, and I’m thinking that this and possibly the Pod Racers from Start Wars Episode 1 were high on that influences list. Sprinkle in a touch of Formula E, the latest in fun quadcopter technology and an easy to use (and futuristic looking) Synchro Steer Wheel transmitter, and you have one of the coolest bits of Xmas 2016 hobby tech I’ve seen in a long while.

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Note the wide 1000 mAh 1S LiPo and the two Sonar Sensors on the crafts belly

Seeing a small fleet of these, all set to display different colours battling it out would be epic. It’s the perfect stock class vehicle for an after-school club, held in a school gym or as I’ve recently seen at a more traditional 1/10th, On or Off Road RC Car club track.

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Kyosho sell two body variants to fit on this airframe…but expect more

Yes, You Can Run Outdoors…But

In totally stock form, and with the arms flat, any cross winds are hard to fight, and tend to push the craft off course. At slow speeds this is something you can counteract easily, but if the wind picks up, just making any headway can be a struggle, and if you are travelling at the crafts top speed, its momentum tends to make it carry for quite a distance.  And this is how the Drone Racer flies, its best described at Point, Squirt and Drift. You use the throttle and steer wheel in conjunction with each other to set the radius as you travel around an actual or imaginary corner marker.

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Sleek and aerodynamic…Inspirational in the Air

You soon get used to how much speed the Drone Racer can carry if you don’t counteract it with either a tap of the brakes (by pushing forwards on the trigger), or in my case when things looked like I may hit an object you gab a full on handful of brake, reversing the motors and causing the Racer to first slow, then stop, then start moving backwards.

When you first take off you flick the three position switch up to the desired level, pull on the trigger to initiate forward momentum, reach the desired speed and then use the throttle to help keep the Drone Racer pointed where you want it to go, modulating the speed with throttle and brake just like an RC car.

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Nore the Red LED’s…that’s what your opposition will see lots of hopefully if you get to race one!

At one point during an outdoor run I ended up with it travelling backwards, at speed heading into a fence. The wind had really picked up and just kept pushing it and even though I was gunning the throttle it just couldn’t fight the wind. Once I tilted the arms forwards however, things got far more aggressive in the handling stakes and the Racer tended to cut through wind moving forwards far better, and didn’t get pushed off course as easily.

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The ams need tilting to fly in any kind of windy conditions, thankfully its was still during most of my testing

On a still day or in a sheltered area outdoors the Drone Racer is lots of fun. It’s just a magnet for people and drew a crowd everywhere I took it, with it flying so low to the ground, excited the big kid in anyone that sees it. Its body shell is a key factor in this. Drones have become part of the everyday fabric of life. But seeing something so futuristic and sleek elevated this product from just 4 sets of blades and a blob of plastic, to something very much more inspiring to pilot or more importantly, observe being piloted.

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The must have piece of RC tech for Xmas 2016…I think so, it’s firmly on my list!

I offered the controls to everyone within my RC peer group that wanted to have a go, admittedly mostly are car guys, but even though this was one of only two sample I knew of outside Japan, I even let a couple of complete RC novice buddies have a go. With the height, it travels, the prop guards, the relatively low RPM the blades spin, and the built-in motor cut out programming, I knew that it was safe to be around. you can’t say that about many drones that aren’t 100% toy grade.

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To some it may look Toy Grade, but once you experience the Drone Racer , you realise its Hobby Grade all the way!

All who experienced it gave the Drone Racer a unanimous thumbs-up for simply being so innovative and different, with only one finding the steer wheel method “a little odd”, but then again he also flies planes and quads, and is a stick man when racing cars too…so there’s no hope for him! If it encourages people into the very diverse and interesting world of Drones now that can’t be a bad thing. I hate to use the term, but this is a gateway product if I ever saw one!

Conclusion…

The Kyosho Drone Racer is a product that to some may initially look like its Toy Grade, but when you consider the build quality, its price point (£249.99), the technology involved in its realisation and its future potential with the Kyosho timing app and additional future performance upgrades, it’s definitely Hobby-Grade through and through. Drone purists probably won’t get it, buy it or race one, and that leaves it open for the rest of the Tech and RC communities to embrace, and that’s a huge market place globally. Judging by the pre-orders the first batch into Europe will sell out fast, and I’ve got one on my Xmas list for sure.

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All that piloted the Drone Racer wanted one. Thats a great compliment for any new product

I just can’t wait to see what Kyosho have up their sleeve next. I hope more variants on the Drone Racer, perhaps a Pro Drone Racer with 2S support, faster motors and FPV? I live in hope…but for the latter I have a confession to make. I have tried it with FPV and its ace fun! I simply used one of the tiny 25mw CE legal AIO 5.8ghz FPV cams we all use on our Tiny Whoop builds, plugged it into the 5V port (the cam takes up to 5v!) and although it reduced the overall flight time slightly, as there’s an additional current draw…it was a very good way to pilot the Drone Racer. In fact, as an entry into the world of FPV, the Kyosho is a great platform. The flight time it offers, and its ability to fly indoors if space allows or outdoors if the winds not too prevalent, make it near perfect.

Final Thought: I would hope that Kyosho will offer a stick version to at some point, even keep in the mixing of Yaw and Roll and just allow throttle and steering, as that would excite even more people about its low flying charms. We shall see…

Huge shout out to Neil Skull and the Kysoho UK team for this opportunity and I can’t wait to get together with a few owners post Xmas and put the Drone Racers through their paces on a track somewhere!

For more on the Kyosho Drone Racer click HERE

Sharpening The Shovel…

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Axial SMT10 Grave Digger – 1/10th Electric 4WD Monster Jam Truck

Part 1 : Digging Up The Past & Dissecting SMT’s Future

Product ID AX90055 UK RRP: £385.99 Global: $399.99

Available In UK From: WheelspinModelsport & All Good Hobby Stores

Available in US From: Tower Hobbies & All Good Hobby Stores

Specs

  • Length: 483 mm
  • Width: 335 mm
  • Height: 269 mm
  • Wheelbase: 353 mm
  • G Clearance: 73.7 mm
  • Weight: 3.2 kg

A Mind Boggling Global Following

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The Grave Digger most of us know and love…but there’s been many, many incarnations before this!

The name Dennis Anderson may not mean anything to a good proportion of you reading this, but I bet most of you have heard of his 4×4 creation, The Grave Digger. Probably the most Iconic Monster truck of all time, and one that many of us have owned at one point in one form or another. From various Mattel Hot wheels 1/64th die cast push along toys to Traxxas 1/16th RC, New bright 1/10th RC and now Axial’s latest 1/10th RTR trucks. It’s been a vehicle that’s inspired kids of all ages with its colour scheme and eerie almost Halloween-esc looks into performing huge real (or imaginary) backflips, jumps and power slides, not to mention crushing other cars! Hell, I even gave my kids official Monster Jam ‘plushie’ versions of it and other Monster Jam trucks to play with as infants…but more on that later.

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The man himself, Dennis Anderson…Still wowing crowds today with his all or nothing driving style

Mud Bogger to Car Crusher

The origins of the now legendary black and green 1950’s Chevy Panel van started in 1982 with a very different look and model of vehicle. The very first Grave Digger was actually a bright red 1952 Ford pickup truck and was built as a Mud Bogger. Dennis then progressed onto a silver and blue 1951 Ford Panel Truck, and this would become the first ‘official’ Grave Digger Monster Truck, and the rest was history.

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A modern tribute to the early Ford panel van that was the first true Grave Digger

The truck was named Grave Digger when Anderson said the now famous line:-“I’ll take this old junk and dig you a grave with it…”. Not just Trash Talk to put the other drivers off, but also pretty factually correct about his old pickup when compared to the other drivers pretty modern rides. Anderson fast built up both respect amongst the o0ther drivers and also a reputation amongst the public who attended these events with  an all-or-nothing, 100% committed driving style.

Grave Digger monster truck. Photos courtesy of Feld Motor Sports
Now this is old Skool…still very much a Mud Bogger in its look…but very cool never the less

His transition from Mud Bogging to becoming a Monster Truck happened overnight. He was competing at a show, when the scheduled Monster Truck failed to show up and perform Car Crushing for the expectant crowd. Anderson, who already had large tractor tires on the Grave Digger, offered to step in and crush cars in it’s absence. The promoter accepted and Grave Digger was given a shot. He was an instant hit with the crowds and this was the catalyst for his, and the trucks future career as a fully fledged Monster Truck.

The Digger Look

In 1986 Grave Digger first received its famous graveyard paint livery. It was still a Ford at this point, and until 1988 Anderson mostly drove the truck at TNT Motorsports races. Despite his team still lacking the major funding that teams like Bigfoot had, he won over the people that really mattered, and quickly became a firm favourite with the crowds and growing numbers of fans of the genre.

Then in In 1987, he truly made his mark. Grave Digger beat Bigfoot in St. Poodle, MN on a show taped for and then shown on a very new ESPN. It was just what he needed to take the truck, and his team to the next level, both in its design and to help generate additional funding.

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Wild runs have always been a trademark of the Grave Digger bloodline…But backflips were incorporated in the last few years

Anderson then built Grave Digger 2 in 1989, with a new 1950 Chevy panel van as its body and everything the team had learnt put into the mechanics. It was during this time that his reputation for making exciting and even ‘wild’ passes in Grave Digger was born. The popularity of Grave Digger when crazy. TNT realised what an icon the truck and Anderson were becoming began promoting them heavily, especially for races on the now legendary ‘Tuff Trax’ syndicated TV series.

Evolution Of Species

TNT became a part USHRA in 1991, and Anderson began running on the USHRA tour and debuted his first four-link truck, Grave Digger 3. The rest was history. In the 1990’s, the popularity of the truck grew so much that Anderson hired other drivers to run multiple Grave Digger trucks at various events across the US. Grave Diggers 4, 5 and 8 were built for just this purpose. Anderson drove Grave Digger 7, a direct successor to 3, for most of this decade. It was eventually replaced by Grave Digger 12, well known as the LWD (Long Wheelbase Digger) which was also the first Grave Digger to have purple in the paintjob.

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The most Iconic Monster truck in the history of the sport…and now you can own one!

In late 90’s, Anderson sold the Grave Digger team to Feld Entertainment Motor Sports, the current event organiser of the Monster Jam series of events that travel globally to this day. Anderson continues to drive Grave Digger and still is the most visible member of the team. The truck recently had its 30th birthday and competed with a special livery. Fans still flock to see the truck at every event it appears in and regardless of the latest team, or truck to appear on the scene, Grave Digger will always capture the public’s imagination, on and off the track.

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The 30th Anniversary livery…and no better way to celebrate than jumping a few cars and school busses!

The SMT-10 Platform On The Slab…

So what is an Axial SMT-10 rig then? Well, for a start there’s the obvious Monster Truck inspired body shell, and this one happens to be a licenced version of the classic Grave Digger.  And I would bet that there’s more options on the way, as let’s face it, why create such a cool Monster Truck platform and not create Axial’s own fleet of 1/10th replicas to please both the hardcore Monster Jam fans, and the existing RC bashing brigade.

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That unmistakable stance and livery….a great scale realisation of this genre of truck

Of all the genre of RC Cars out there, the Monster Truck has the widest appeal by far. You can in theory run it just about anywhere. It takes lots of abuse, and where a thoroughbred 4×4 race platform would probably break in two…most of the time a well-designed and made Monster Truck just keeps coming back for more. It’s no thin cheaply made shell either. Its .040 Polycarbonate and comes complete with a .040 scale interior with driver figure, complete with optional glow in the dark skeleton driver’s head!

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I love the attention to detail and all the little logos and tributes in the livery

Other cool touches like sweeping chrome ‘Zoomie’ style header pipes, and yet another optional (but included in the box) part, a chromed Supercharger Blower intake and additional engine detail you can bolt onto the bonnet (hood for my US chums!) all add to the look and feel of the truck.

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A totally new chassis design especially for this SMT 10 platform

Then there’s the chassis and roll cage. In this rig it’s a bright Grave Digger Green, but I would expect it to be black in subsequent releases. It was designed to resemble as closely as possible the modern era full size monster trucks, the chassis was developed to offer maximum strength combined with an extremely detailed appearance. That’s not something that’s easy to do, and most Monster Trucks that came before this release had to sacrifice that very detail aspect in favour of very exaggerated and often frankly unrealistic beefed up TVP chassis. The chassis strength actually lies in the clever way, just like in the real thing, Axial have used triangulation of the chassis tubes, making it ready for just about anything you can throw at it in use. But the features don’t end there.

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Tributes to its competition? or hints as to future Axial releases? I know my daughters hoping Monster Mutt gets released!

Weight Distribution and C of G

The battery tray can be easily accessed at the rear of the vehicle, without removing the body or disturbing any of the electrics. Yes, it sits quite high up compared to anything Axial have released before, but that’s so the C of G is optimised for the rig to perform and handle just like the real thing.  You want to be able to pop the occasional wheelie, to attempt single, double and even triple backflips. And all of these require the truck to rotate around a fixed point, and one that’s pretty high and towards the rear of the rig.

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The rear mounted cell tray can accommodate 2 or 3S LiPo cells with ease

Installing a LiPo is so easy. You just remove one pin, swing out the cell tray, and slide the battery pack in. The tray is fully height adjustable with four screws, making room for most standard sized ‘Brick’ 2S and 3S LiPo battery packs. Talking of which the rig is out of the box set up for 3S use, with a 56T Spur / 11T as standard, but Axial Includes a 16T Pinion for 2S use. Now I find this a bit odd as most of us have 2S packs or would start with a 2S pack until we get the feel of any new vehicle. I guess they want prospective owners to jump straight in and experience the additional thrills and spills 11.1v RPM offers, especially when you consider this rig is supplied with a 27t brushed motor so perhaps not the fastest kid on the block running 2S!

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Yes, the rig comes with an optional drivers Head/Helmet/Skull that will glow in the dark…

Ram Steering

The Monster Truck related design content continues with a new heavy duty tie rod, drag link, and faux scale Hydraulic Ram Steering Link to ensure the massive tyres go where you want them to. Being plastic the steering links are more forgiving than an all alloy setup and offer a little flex in conjunction with the servo saver to help the Tactic TSX45, metal geared steering servo stay intact.

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At the supplied 5v BEC voltage from the Axial AE-5 ESC the servo produces just under 11kg of torque that for a RTR isn’t a bad g brakes between 100% or 50%figure. AS for the ESC itself, the AE-5 is one of the simplest units in the RC world to use. Its rated for a peak current of 180A with a motor limit of 12t on 2S or 18t on 3S and uses a simple jumper system to set up the desired parameters of battery type (between NiMH or LiPo), and drag brake force (between 100% or 50%).

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THe AE-5 in all its 2 or 3S LiPo compatible glory…

But that’s not all. When you plug in your chosen cell to the pre-soldered Deans connector, the ESC goes through a self-test/diagnostics routine. It automatically sets the throttle and brake end points, and if set in LiPo mode, it checks if you are using a 2 or 3S LiPo. No switching on, holding throttle or brake and waiting for beeps or lights…It’s pretty much fool proof (well, I could use it so….)

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BKT- official tyre manufacturer of Monster Jam and Axial have reproduced them to perfection

To put all that torque and RPM where its needed most, Axial have produced a scale BKT MOnster Truck tyre. BKT are the official and exclusive tire manufacturer of Monster Jam and its 1:1 fleet of trucks. The full size tyres, just like their 1/10th equivalents have been designed to handle the inherent stresses involved with both ‘Racing’ and ‘Freestyle’ Monster Jam competition.

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The waterproof receiver box…not that I will be fording any streams any time soon!

The rig also features a waterproof radio box to keep the 3-channel TR325 3-channel receiver safe and dry, if you do decide to go and run the truck in the wet. And thats brings me nicely onto the included 2.4GHz 3-Channel transmitter. The Tactic TTX300 is not your ordinary RTR radio. For a start it has a user programmable 3rd channel, allowing the end user to control almost anything they desire. RC Dig Units and Winches are the obvious choice, which makes this system perfect for the scale and crawling community. But it can also be used to switch on and off LED lighting, onboard cameras and even sound units and other such accessories.  Then theres the SLT (Secure Link 2.4Ghz Technology), which once bound creates an unbreakable link between the receiver and your transmitter. The look is also very unique and futuristic, this isn’t a RTR Tx you will feel ashamed of being seen with!

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3-Channel, Futuristic, 2.4GHz…whats not to like. At last a RTR Tx that looks cool!

Proven Axles…Beefed Up C -Hubs

The SMT10 features the now proven AR60 axle with a true trailing arm 4-linked rear suspension and also offers additional shock mounting positions. As with previous releases  the AR60 OCP-Axle is injection moulded in a tough composite which has a very low flex rate, but is not as brittle as standard glass filled nylon used by many other brands. The axles feature an Off-center pumpkin design with reinforced axle tubes with a boxed-in axle truss to offer stability and durability. They even changed the diff cover to give them a slightly different look. Subtle but cool.

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Axial understand that Monster trucks undergo many more stresses than scale rigs or rock racers. So to that end they have strengthened the front C-Hubs to take all the hard impacts and occasional bad landings the rig will endure from monster jumps and good old fashioned RC bashing.

Shock Tactics

Where other brands fit multiple units at each corner to share the load, Axial know their current breed of oil filled shocks can take Monster abuse off road and stick to just a single unit in each corner, far more in keeping with the real Grave Digger.  The chassis offers a variety of shock mounting points for additional suspension tuning options, meaning in seconds you can either lay the shocks down at more of an angle to soften the ride and lower the ride height, or sit them more upright to stiffen the suspension and raise the ride height.

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Threaded collars make adjusting preload and ride height a breeze

Although the alloy bodied shocks have plastic tops they are very well made and even under the most extreme bashing duress didn’t immediately start spewing shock all from their seals. It is worth noting that as the shock bodies are actually 10mm, and not the 12mm of most of their other shocks, at the moment alloy caps are hard to find as a Hop Up, but once the SMT10 has been out a while and some get released, adding these, with a smear of Team Associated ‘Green Slime’ to each seal will greatly improve the longevity of the shocks between routine maintenance.  Also remember not over tighten them as the plastic caps can strip their internal thread leading to even more leak issues! Just nip them tight and all will be good in the world.

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Note the Lower Links/Trailing Arms and those epic Zoomie pipes!

Old Skool AX Transmission

In a departure from the recently released SCX10 II transmission, with its optional 2-speed add-on, with the SMT10 Axial instead decided to revert back to the trusty AX10  single speed unit. Initially I was a little shocked by this, but then thought through this trucks intended use and the stresses the transmission would have to endure. Keeping things simple meas that 1: it will take more abuse, even with a brushless setup. 2: tons of spares are available, from hardened internal gear sets and alloy cases to the choice of motor mount and spur gear choice. Its a unit that’s served us well for many, many years and nice to see Axial still utilising it in their latest vehicles. When used in conjunction with the WB8 HD Driveshafts
with their larger diameter cross pin for added strength and a new center splined slider to reduces flex and fatigue its a potent combination…especially when running on 3S!

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Anatomy Of The SMT10

Seen from above, the layout of the rig’s chassis and electronics follows a well thought out patten. Weight is evenly distributed, the track width and wheelbase offering stability where its needed and the Centre Of Gravity sitting in a position to offer a fun driving experience.

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Let’s face it, iid this was the most stable RC vehicle ever invented then its wouldnt mimic the trucks that compete at Monster Jam. I’ll go into this more in part 2, where I put it through its paces on various different terrains, but suffice to say, this shell will not remain immaculate, it will get thoroughly bash tested on both 2 and 3S and I will attempt my party piece, the double (or even triple) Backflip. Until then I leave you with a few more images of the pristine truck…as I eagerly charge LiPo cells and get my official Grave Digger Monster Jam T shirt on…I am so looking forward to this!

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THe Gravedigger will always be a fan favourite…it’s arguably the most iconic MT ever!

But why does this truck mean so much to me? Well, a few years ago myself and the then RRCi team worked at Monster Jam at the UK events they staged. We did the warm up for the crowd using Traxxas 1/8th RC Monster Trucks (with incidentally, the now head of Axials UK office, Andrew Rawlinson!). Hanging out with all the teams was amazing, we had a great time, even getting to sit in the Trucks and experience the practice runs and event itself right next to the track itself. We even have the blower belt from Grave Digger hanging in Speedy Steve’s garage after he broke it in the final on his very last winning run!

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I love Monster Jam because I was part of the UK events a few years back!

The driver and team of Grave Digger at that event bet me a mountain of Grave Digger goodies I couldn’t backflip the biggest gap in the stadium (well over 90 feet) in front of the very large crowd, so no pressure there then! Always up for a challenge I attempted it both days as the finale of the warm up. I would position my 6s powered truck at the far end of the stadium and drive it full speed to the take off ramp! 1st day I landed on the down ramp at an odd angle and broke an A arm and bent a shock, plus the rear of the trucks body didnt fare too well either. The second day it actually landed ‘in’ the last crushed car in a line of them just before the down ramp and disappeared completely, to a round of applause from the crowd…

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I Got My Stash Of Goodies!

Because of the sheer entertainment factor of my attempts (you could hear them all laughing from the pit area!) they gave me my goodies (plush Monster Jam trucks for kids, kids T shirts and one of my most prized possessions to this day, my GD Cap and adult T’s). I still keep in touch with some of the crew on Facebook and I know for as fact they are digging the new Axial in a big way. Oh, and there was also an incident with a certain RC truck and the shows compare…but what happens in Pride Park Derby, stays in Pride Park Derby eh Andrew!

Join me soon for part 2 when we run the rig, test its abilities to the hilt and see if I can get my backflip mojo back! Until then here’s the official Axial video of the SMT10 Grave Digger Monster Jam Truck in action…

For more on Monster Jam and the 2016/17 global tour dates click: HERE

For more on Axial Racing and the SMT10 Grave Digger click: HERE

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